UKC

Restricted Access

See the information board at the bottom of the approach path for details of seasonal restrictions.

100m. Note: A regional government decree forbids climbing between 1 December - 31 May. Start the approach from the covered noticeboard by the road. Although not apparent from below, the route avoids the lower part of the ridge and starts quite high on the left-hand, easterly, flank, just right of the impressive grey wall/pillar. Follow the path up terraces to the right of the noticeboard to a finger post, then scramble up and left through woodland and scrub to the bottom of the ridge. Walk up towards the main east face of the ridge. There are several cable lengths along the base, which provides an easy walking warm up. The first section follows the edge of a large flake, with good right-hand layaways, followed by a short chain and staple traverse left. There follows a great vertical pitch which eases at half height (rest bolt half way up, if you need it), followed by more slabby staple ladders up a succession of grooves and steps in the ridge. The horizontal ridge is straightforward and broad but protected by a cable and bolts. Abseil from an obvious twin bolt arrangement (60m rope required) and descend a short earth/scree slope to pick up a cable and path descending through scrub and pine trees. When the cable ends follow the path down through the woodland and terraces to join the road. Turn right and arrive back at the noticeboard in a few minutes.

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