Devon > Long Quarry Point >
 
Black Ice*** E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
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Grip Type Thynne >>
[Skating on Black Ice, 3 kb]The centre of the huge sweep of ‘boilerplate' slabs provides some exquisite slab-climbing. Start directly beneath the smoothest part of the face, just to the right of a small tree. Photo opposite. 1) 5c, 30m. Move up past some pink stains to a good peg in a thin diagonal break. Go right to another peg, before climbing leftwards to a shallow niche, then a large vegetated break just above. Move right 2 metres, and climb the wall above a short way, before traversing left, past a peg, to gain a thin, intermittent crack-line. Follow this to a difficult sequence just below the belay-ledge. 2) 5c, 23m. Climb up rightwards from the belay to a ledge, slightly loose. Move up to an undercut flake. Take this leftwards, then follow the steep, fingery wall to another flake-crack on the left. Climb more easily to a bolt-belay. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Photo: Skating on Black Ice © Justin T
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

P1. Excellent route. Best day out in a while.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Rooker

Led P2. Still loving this climb
Mr Tickle - AltLd rpt - 16/Mar/14 with RusseyB

Led P1. Glad I didn't lead P2
Paul Robertson - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/14 with Guy Percival

Pitch 1 is superb, best slab pitch I have done at that sort of grade.
guy xavier percival - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/14 with paul

what a stunning route, great varied moves all the way! very well protected, much more gear than expected, ran out of quick draws on p1
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Mark

Motown - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Richy

Led both pitches. A good first pitch not really matched by the second.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2013 with Colin

Backed out of this in July, but regretted it! Glad I returned to second it - great slab climbing in a beautiful spot.
Thunderthighsontheloose - 2nd - 18/Oct/12 with Mike Hayes

wolverine - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/12 with Thunderthighsontheloose

P2. Both good.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/12 with Eddie Young

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/12

Mike W - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/12 with bigrob

led p2
Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with tim exley

tim exley - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Tom Secombe

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/12

Love love this route!
robbie Warke - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Jamie Langler

Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Pete Graham

Pete Graham - AltLd - 25/Feb/12 with Tom Powell

burto - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/12 with jerome

Lead both pitches clean to retrieve gear from the saturday. Secound pitch is bloody brilliant and much better than it looks.
Ed morris - Lead rpt - 15/Feb/12 with joe

joedou - 2nd dog - 15/Feb/12

Only first pitch as it was getting dark and my secound was in a fragile state. Abbed of first belay Will be back to finish. This pitch is really really good. Better moves than comes the dervish..I think so
Ed morris - Lead - 11/Feb/12 with joe

JeromeT - AltLd - Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/11

couldnt comit to gettin to reaching the last flake on the second pitch but managed to get it done thext day:D
JackHatton - AltLd RP - 20/Nov/11 with richy mardell

Led P1 and P2. Great climb! Needed good footwork in places but some great moves. Felt a bit loose after leaving belay.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with davenev

davenev - 2nd - 06/Nov/11 with luke

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Dawlish

Dawlish - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with Bristoldave

great route best E graded route i have done! i did 2nd pitch
adam cooper*super* - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11 with jack folland

Lead the first pitch this time. One of my all time favourite routes
Jack_F - AltLd O/S - 14/May/11 with adam cooper* super*

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/11

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 02/May/11

andy_pemberton - AltLd - 2011 with Steve Gooberman Hill

feilx - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Matt Perks

Thin and painful on the feet. loose rock and the vegetation detracts. good job the climbing is reallllll nice.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Mikey G

2nd pitch. Great climbing on both pitches. Crimpy wall at the top after the undercuts is awesome but a bit loose...
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with alex mason

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/10

P1..awesome! pretty tricky and fairly run-out...really good pitch though! been wanting to do this for a while! 2nd pitch is a bit loose...
Duncan Campbell - UKC - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Dom Jeff

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with James Arding

awesome route ,led second pitch
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with sim

Jack_F - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with sam farnsworth

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 05/Apr/09 with Alex Hughes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/09

Hey Berty its yer birfday!!!!
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with Paula

Lovely slabby stuff.
maresia - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/07 with Fiend

Rob Kennard - 2007

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

lukea - 2nd O/S - Jul/05 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/May/05

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with bunny, Paula, Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

mark schramm - 2nd - May/96

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 03/Jun/95 with Lee Bartrop

lead P2
mattnuttall - AltLd - 05/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/92

Led both pitches
Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 25/May/91 with Pete Stapley

RichardMc - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/88 with Jon Clifford-Smith

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jun/87

ecowaller - Lead - 1980

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Justin T, Hidden, andy south devon, Kate Edhouse, pete87abs, Ropeboy, Hidden, Hidden, Jon_Warner, The Pylon King, Dave Searle

Voting
Total votes cast 69
hard E40 of 24
E40 of 24
easy E40 of 24
hard E31 of 24
E320 of 24
easy E33 of 24
hard E20 of 24
E20 of 24
easy E20 of 24
hard 6a0 of 24
6a0 of 24
easy 6a1 of 24
hard 5c0 of 24
5c23 of 24
easy 5c0 of 24
hard 5b0 of 24
5b0 of 24
easy 5b0 of 24
3 Stars19 of 21
2 Stars2 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead23 of 61 (37.7%)
Followed8 of 61 (13.1%)
Alt Leads28 of 61 (45.9%)
Unknown2 of 61 (3.3%)

'Climbed'15 of 61 (24.6%)
clean O/S39 of 61 (63.9%)
clean β1 of 61 (1.6%)
clean rpt4 of 61 (6.6%)
clean RP1 of 61 (1.6%)
dogged1 of 61 (1.6%)