Devon > Haytor (aka Hay Tor) and Low Man >
 
Vandal and Ann** HVS 5b

Adjacent Climbs
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[Vandal and Anne, 2 kb]Hard boulder start, may be worth bringing a mat if you have one handy, as the start is hard 5b. Continuing direct past the iron spikes leads to easier (but by no means easy) climbing, on good (if not tricky to place) wires, or small cams if you desire, which gradually eases. There is now an abseil point at the top of Bridal Piton Slab, making it even easier just to do Vandal, however Ann is also a worthwhile pitch, with a hard start and delicate finish. It is a tad mossy but it does not ditract too much from the climbing, and with a bit more mileage it would soon dissapear. All in all, 2 brilliant pitches.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Vandal and Anne © stroppygob
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 238 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Laed as one pitch. The first pitch requires fun technical slab climbing, the second one was an awkward chimney leading into lots of moss pulling! worth it for the first pitch
dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Ros

roryferris - Lead β - 10/Apr/14 with sam harris

did first pitch, with gear falling out left right and centre (thankfully none were the last protection) did the first pitch and decided it was too miserable to go on
Rory Bascombe - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/14 with Ben clarke

1st pitch only, great start to the pitch, descended via chimney to the left
execlimber - Solo O/S - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/13

bottled first pitch. combined 2nd pitch with central groove
petegruf - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with julia k

started to lead and wimped out the final third. Went back for the top rope. The second pitch is scary as very mossy!
Ant Mace - TR RP - 07/Aug/13

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/13 with Ollie Stevens

Hidden - 2nd β - 03/Aug/13

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 01/Aug/13 with Rebecca

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jul/13

a bit greasy on the first pitch...
BelayBunney - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/13 with Catherine

Nice technical climbing.
Stew nutter - 2nd - 09/Jul/13 with Alan reason

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13

jonlord - 2nd O/S - Jul/13

Motown - 2nd - 08/Jun/13 with Luke

Nice balancy start. Good climb, thought the top was good as well.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Will

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Simon Berry

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with Dan S

Top roped first pitch as Joe was already @ the belay. Lead P2. Hard work in light rain and brisk winds!
thomaspomfrett - AltLd O/S - 11/May/13 with Joe Callaghan

stephen ashworth - Lead - 06/May/13 with john frost, martin clarke

martin clarke - 2nd - 06/May/13 with john frost, steve ashworth

Led and enjoyed both pitches
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Dave Marshall

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

First pitch needs small cams, second is offwidth covered in moss... Scary biscuits, my leader said, nails biscuits, i said seconding.
homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with David

First pitch needs small cams, second is offwidth covered in moss... Scary biscuits, my leader said, nails biscuits, i said seconding.
homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with David

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Apr/13

Nick Biven - 2013

Had a crack at this late in the day, stringing both pitches together. Loved the first slab - forces good footwork. The second pitch not so much; in the second half, every move in the groove was a fight, and I found it far harder than the first section. Slipped off inches short of the final holds and hurried down the hill before dark. One to come back for.
Jack J Keogan - Lead dnf - 11/Nov/12 with Camilla Brimble

It was extremely windy, cold and my shoes started off wet which wasn't great on the unprotected, hard, pretty much all feet, balancy start, so i cheated. Its not worth 3 stars because of all the moss everywhere.
zcsharp - Lead - 03/Nov/12 with Camilla

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12

Mr-Cowdrey - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with chris ridgers

I led the 2nd pitch.Nice route,both pitches complement each other nicely.
Popkids - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Baz

Joe Richards - TR β - 25/Jul/12

only first pitch because second was easier but looked dirty green and horrible
RossT - Lead - 03/Jul/12 with Tim Howell

1st pitch only.
andy_pemberton - 2nd - 27/Jun/12 with Steve Gibson

Rockfax gives this 3 stars but I thought it was horrible! All the holds were covered in lichen and moss, which combined with my distrust of slopers led to aiding on the rope.
Katherine Ross - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/12 with Charlie Beard

Really naff! Covered in crud. I don't know how a route gets 3 stars if you have to pull moss off the rock to stand on it! Second pitch had a fun crossed hands start
cbeard - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Katherine Ross

both pitches, led the second
mbradberry2008 - AltLd O/S - 20/May/12 with James Mccann, Alex French

flyinfrenchy - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with James McCann, Matt Bradberry

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

Very wet! Slipped a couple of times.
Lyndsay Superclimber - 2nd dog - 01/May/12 with Mark S

Not the best route choice straight after a week of rain. The top pitch was literally dripping wet.
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 01/May/12 with Lyndsay

guy757 - 16/Apr/12

covered in moss at the top, very green
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Alex

First pitch only, scarier than I expected but I was committed by then.
Mr Powly - Solo O/S - 03/Mar/12

Davebryant - Lead - 20/Feb/12 with Sam Hann

Lewis Stewart - 2012

Hidden - 2nd β - 2012

jcook1980 - 2nd - 10/Dec/11 with Dan Walker

Had to have a few goes at the first moves.
mark schramm - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Dave L

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/11

Runner in crack to right. Found a sling & krab on top!
Sean Kelly - Lead - 03/Oct/11 with Harry Pearce

Thin, balancy, mossy delights
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with bobby gilbert

Great adventure route. Top pitch very mossy and exciting. Fun.
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Katherine Sydney

Hidden - Lead - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11

Kevster - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

timreynolds - Lead - 14/Sep/11 with Matt Reynolds

mad matt - 2nd dog - 14/Sep/11 with Tim Reynolds

Felix Ottey - Lead - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - Solo - 09/Aug/11

stephen ashworth - Solo - 09/Aug/11

p1 only
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Rich

only did the first pitch. good first 7 metres but not sure about the rest of the pitch, hardly worth the three stars
stvredmond - Lead - 10/Jul/11 with Helen Norris, Robert Duerr

Helnorris - 2nd - 10/Jul/11 with Steve Redmond

Will_Maxwell - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/11

chrisbrown_023 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Lloyders - 2nd O/S - Jul/11

P1 only. Tricky start, but eases out after the jug
Cheese Monkey - 2nd RP - 29/Jun/11 with Dave Ing

P1 only. Skipped the hard start by stepping on the block on the left, making it HVS 5a or so.
Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Ben

pete3685 - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/11

Owen Jefferies - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Chris Ellyatt

Did the 2nd pitch of this, after finishing Bridle Piton Slab to the right. 2nd pitch VERY mossy, which makes it feel quite insecure!
Chris Ellyatt - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/11 with Owen Jefferies

dale1968 - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/11 with Tom

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 25/May/11 with Chaman, DCIGadget

Mark S led
Chaman - 2nd O/S - 25/May/11 with Mark W, Mark Schramm

First pitch only as second look hideous. Pretty run-out on slopers. Bold but good, although only really worth one star. No way is the start "hard 5b". HVS 5a is a fairly accurate grade fr this route.
Tom Last - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Chester

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/11

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Carol

Mark led Chaman + I second great climb
DCIGadget - 2nd rpt - 25/May/11 with Mark Schramm, Chaman

Homes - AltLd - 19/May/11 with Leo

leohl - AltLd - 19/May/11

msoldn - 2nd O/S - 16/May/11 with Sam

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/11

Rupert led great first pitch
DCIGadget - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Rupert SDMC

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

All in one pitch, pretty fun, Ann would be full on in the wet
jmjw - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Rob H

thomb - 2nd - 06/Apr/11 with tim

Both pitches.
Sean Kelly - 06/Apr/11 with Tim

timreynolds - Lead - 06/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - Apr/11

abicampbell - TR O/S - Apr/11

mark schramm - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with jason, Chris E

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

chris ebbutt - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Jason, Mark

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Mar/11

Fun climb with a burly start! Second pitch is harder than it looks and was very green!
BelayBunney - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/11 with Catherine

Luke90 - 2nd - 20/Mar/11 with M Bryan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/11

Hidden - TR dog - 20/Mar/11

But Luke failed. Haha, I win!
M Bryan - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Luke Horne

CptRicActiv - Lead - 2011

CptRicActiv - Lead - 2011

waydan - AltLd O/S - 2011 with El Swiftos

ilch - 2nd dog - 18/Oct/10 with Ben

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with nick

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Sep/10

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Paula

Tristan Sherlock - TR - 30/Aug/10 with Tom Bunn, Ealine Budden

El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Tom Thorpe

Nathan led/soloed, very thin on the gear but a nice set of interesting technical slab moves. Earns stars for sure.
Kemics - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/10

me: pitch 2
Tom Seccombe - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with tim exley

lead 1st pitch
tim exley - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Tom Secombe

_m.cox_ - 2nd β - Jul/10 with Jason Williams, Tom Harrison

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/10

CharlotteJelleyman - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Matt Eaves

petecallaghan - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Chris Ebbutt

gailc - 2nd dog - 16/Apr/10 with Richie

Had to leave - very quickly, so didn't finish and down-climbed.
Tom Last - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/10 with Caroline

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

vandal only, then fun caving style descent. thought it was soft for 5b. didn't fancy the top pitch solo though.
w.pettet-smith - Solo O/S - 30/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09

John lead the first pitch, I lead the second
hrgcb - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with John Chattaway

P1 me P2 Chris
francois - AltLd - 20/Aug/09 with Chris

Tricky first boulder move - quite polished low down. Rest of route is fine though.
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/09 with Francois

Lead second pitch after leading Central Chimney
rfdl100 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Robin Van de Helde

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/09 with Lee

I lead 1st pitch
tcfield - AltLd RP - 26/Jun/09

Pretty bold stuff for HVS5b as the gear is not that great.
francois - 2nd - 16/Jun/09 with Ben

JimR - 14/Jun/09

Chubbard - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/09 with J Robinson

Hidden - Solo - 07/Jun/09

Vandal clean, awesome :) Fell on top move of Ann, foot slipped on moss! needs a good scrub! Ah well, 1st 5b clean onsight ... Get on!
JonHarvey - Lead dog - 02/Jun/09 with James Langridge

epic climb...surprised that people avoid the great second pitch.
langar27 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with jon harvey

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/09

tonanf - Lead - Jun/09 with burt

TO6715 - Lead β - 07/May/09

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Tom Galvin

Clean climb of Vandal, but Ann was coated in slippy moss and not yet touched by the sun...
Alex Thompson - Lead dog - 21/Mar/09 with Jon Thompson

jon thompson27 - Mar/09 with Alex Thompson

Hidden - 2009

manwithacam - AltLd - 26/Sep/08 with Martin

sharmawho? - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with oli

RobSteere - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/08 with John Axeworthy

Slipped off start once
Jon_Warner - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/08 with Edan

Climbed both in one pitch, just before the onset of a thunder storm. Made the slopey, mossy top out even more nervy.
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 14/May/08 with James Dell

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/May/08

1st Pitch only. Started to rain half way up!
Reeges - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/08 with Nick Saunders

dewrats - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

First pitch only
Chris_barr - Solo O/S - 2008 with Oli, Harry

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Nov/07

Led by accident! Thought the Diff felt a bit hard.
Darrell Read - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Sam Cruickshank

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/07

1st pitch only
misterb - Lead β - 14/Sep/07 with simon

First pitch only, top pitch covered in moss
dmoir - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/07

David Sherratt - Jun/07

angleseykayaker - Lead - 12/May/07 with Paul Griffiths

Hard start brilliant sustained climbing, first pitch worthy of 3 stars, 2nd Pitch mossy at this time of year
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Jonny

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/06 with charlie

Hidden - Solo rpt - 22/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/06

1st pitch only
MontyH - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Paul Milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/06

chris j - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Richard

The start confused everybody.
cmsg - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Alastair McKelvie

richardr - Jun/06

Bern - 2006

Only Vandal. Ann looks dirty and grim!
gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Johnsey

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 10/Jul/05 with Claire Stein, Graham Stein

Hidden - TR - Feb/05

me first pitch
Gareth - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Andrew

Hidden - 2005

Gibson27 - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/04

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 19/May/04 with Simon Howe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/03

Vandal only. Down climbed Bridle Piton Slab to descend.
D Berry - Lead O/S - 26/May/03 with Claire Berry

Rob Pitt - 2003

Led in one
cem - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/02 with James Gregory

Alaric - TR - 25/May/02 with Richard H

Hidden - Solo O/S - Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/01

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2001

CraigMac1 - 2000

Marti999 - 2000

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

NickP - 2000

AJH - 2nd - 1999 with Henk

Hidden - Lead - 1999

sixties - Lead - 08/Aug/98 with hrd

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 09/May/98 with Claire Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/98

AndySL - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/96 with Jerry

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 21/Aug/96

timreynolds - Lead - 05/Jun/96 with Andy Leivers

Hidden - Solo - 1996

Done by mistake (Ann) - I thought it was a continuation to some Diff that got me to the top of Vandal. I was doing Ok until I got to the mossy, sloping top of Ann where, as I was gathering the courage to make the green finishing moves (about 80 ft up...) a boy watching below turned to his mum and said: "Will that man die if he falls off?". I decided the answer was "yes" and completely lost all confidence - a bad thing to happen when soloing. Meanwhile, a party of abseilers on top of the Tor were about to throw ropes down the face I was climbing up so I called for a toprope and completed the last moves easily with that reassurance. A bad experience - I seldom solo if there are other people around and I'm usually good at route-finding and reading guidebooks. Not sure what went wrong - perhaps being unfamiliar with the rock type I couldn't judge the difficulty before setting off and hopped onto something beyond my normal soloing range. Slunk off embarrassed but alive.
EddieA - Solo - Oct/95

colin milton - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/95 with eric milton

sdht - 1994

leadmat - Lead - Jun/93

pmot - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/92

Lead in mistake for Superdirect.
jim_randell - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/92 with MS

eroica64 - Lead - Aug/91 with Denis Crampton

Roget - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/90 with jim

Iain Thow - TR - 31/May/90 with Rob Ivens

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/90

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

ChrisJD - Lead - 19/Aug/87

Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/87 with John Derbyshire

Raggar - 2nd - 21/Sep/86 with Jon B

No moss.Very delicate second pitch.
bleddynmawr - Lead - Jun/86 with Pete Cox

frank ramsay - Lead - 1985

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/84

God only knows how I got up this in 1983. I was so inexperienced then. I've looked at it recently but never done it again. It's a great granite route lots of rounded holds and smears for your feet. Just what I'm not good at. Would love to meet Greg again. He moved from Sheffield to Devon and then I moved from Devon to Leeds..... Devon is best
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - Jul/83 with Greg Smith

Mark Kemball - Solo - Jun/83

Ena - AltLd - 1983

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/82 with John Edwards

Mike C - AltLd - 03/Jun/82 with John Walker

Before this date
D Tempest - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 143
hard E10 of 49
E10 of 49
easy E12 of 49
hard HVS20 of 49
HVS26 of 49
easy HVS1 of 49
hard VS0 of 49
VS0 of 49
easy VS0 of 49
hard 5c0 of 49
5c1 of 49
easy 5c1 of 49
hard 5b27 of 49
5b16 of 49
easy 5b2 of 49
hard 5a2 of 49
5a0 of 49
easy 5a0 of 49
3 Stars7 of 45
2 Stars27 of 45
1 Star7 of 45
0 Stars3 of 45
Bag of .....1 of 45
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Style of ascent

Soloed17 of 238 (7.1%)
Lead105 of 238 (44.1%)
Followed60 of 238 (25.2%)
Toproped8 of 238 (3.4%)
Alt Leads27 of 238 (11.3%)
Unknown21 of 238 (8.8%)

'Climbed'85 of 238 (35.7%)
clean O/S116 of 238 (48.7%)
clean β8 of 238 (3.4%)
clean rpt13 of 238 (5.5%)
clean RP4 of 238 (1.7%)
dogged8 of 238 (3.4%)
dnf4 of 238 (1.7%)