Will o' the Wisp*** HVD
[Sam Roberts on the traverse, 2 kb]95m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the all-time Mid Wales classic routes that weaves its way up a stunningly-located buttress. The views and climbing are well worth the effort of both the wait for a dry period and the longish approach drive. The climb gets plenty of ascents and the rock is solid and clear of vegetation.
1) 25m. Climb the cleanest line up leftwards and then back right to a belay below steeper ground.
2) 8m. Move up and then rightwards to out-flank the steepest ground, before accessing good ledges above.
3) 14m. Traverse left along the ledge and continue to a ramp. Move up the ramp and then make an interesting traverse left across a slab before ascending to a good ledge.
4) 14m. Move left along the ledge and continue via a gap to moves slightly down, and then up and leftwards, to a belay at an overhung ledge close to the arete.
5) 8m. Move left around the arete - exposed - and climb steeply on good holds to easier ground and a belay on a tree.
6) 20m. Scramble up to, and then stand on, a large block. Make an awkward move up the corner above and finish up easier ground to grassy ledges on top of the buttress. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Start by scrambling up through ferns to a wide slab, in line with the farm buildings.
1.Go easily up the slab heading for a ledge with a small tree on its left end. 2. From the RH end climb steeply on large holds rightwards and up to the capacious 1st Tea ledge. Good nut belays. 3.Traverse left to the 2nd and smaller Tea Ledge 4.Continue traversing left until on the 3rd Ledge, under a small overhang. 5. The crux. Step around the arête in an exposed position then climb steeply up to belay at a tree 6. Head left to surmount a block then continue rightwards and up to the top. Descent is up a little further then down the gully. Steep and slippery in the wet.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS.

Photo: Sam Roberts on the traverse © Dim Dringo
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 190 logbooks, and on 43 wishlists.

Guiding Rusty up his first trad route
dobby 200 - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/15 with rusty

The walk in is as bad as previously described, horrific is the word I'd use. Apart from pitch 5 I'm not sure the route deserves 3 stars.
maty500 - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/15

Led pitches 1, 2 and 5 (moving together). Horrible walk-in and somewhat disappointing; flashes of brilliance, the odd excellent move but then replaced by more of the same walking across easy ledges or basically scrambling up ramps. We were moving together but protection didn't seem to good either.
andrewmcleod - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/15 with Zack Coleman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/15

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jul/15

guy757 - 27/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/15

Perfect conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, preceeded by at least a week of dry weather, and not a soul about. Good route, clean rock and an expansive view. Only problem was that is wasn't long enough. Easy approach if traversing in left from the main path. Steepish grass slopes, but not over grown this early in the season. We decided to extend the day by heading continuing up after topping out - tough work, steep heather clad slopes went on and on! Loads of bilberry bushes but no fruit this early.
Karlos - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Harriet

Harriet Stewart - 2nd - 18/Apr/15 with Karl

I lead P2 and 3. Pitch 4 was awesome!
dobby 200 - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Evan

Mike Bayley - 2015

Mike Bayley - 2015

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

Walk in was hard work (from Solihull MC hut), route was good.
Dave Richards - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with sjbrook

Forest pitch didn't feel quite in line with guide book but rest was good. Could be done 1+2, 3+4, 5+6. We did 1, 2+3, 4+5, 6 cos we like rope drag!
sjbrook - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Dave Richards, PMC

Hidden - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/14

30 min walk in straight up through rh forest. Run p1+2 together, bit dirty and balancy moves. P3+4 nice long exposed traverse steady and good gear, nice seat belay under the arÍte. P5 exposed around and up the arÍte. P6 up blocks to the top. Nice climbing that gets better, big exposure and nice views. Descent is fine
Pinguville - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with George

Jo led p1 and p2 together. I led p3 and p5. It's possible to run p3 and p4 together.
MD - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Jo

Happy Wanderer - AltLd rpt - 07/Sep/14 with Mike D

Water pooling behind wires in cracks, water running down sleeves, howling winds, crying girlfriends- a proper day out on a lovely little route.
LP - 26/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14

Gib lip - Aug/14 with Phil Hughes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/14

cjohn62 - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with paul

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/14

Enjoyed once we found the start. Must say the the approach was harder than the climb, although we did take the steepest possible!
magsb - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Marion

Great day and a great route. A real variety of pitches and lovely exposure for the grade. The start is a nightmare to find as its buried in ferns. Started up the wrong route by mistake... Need to start about 75m right of the large scree slope and in line with the farm after scrambling up through vertical greenery. Took a tumble on the descent - crampons would have been helpful....
Babika - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Sean Toms

seanprendiville - AltLd - 22/Jun/14 with Tessa

Nice route. Agree with last comment about getting to the crag. The Rockfax guide is reasonably good. Would add that once half way between the two wood plantations head up the small scree patch.
Neil Watson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14

Jonny Harrison - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Jordan jones

The route was not the best I've done for a classic rock route. The approach description is not great it should read. Once you have crossed the stile head up the hill walking away from the crag. When you get about level with top of the two wood blocks on the left look for the faint path marked with a rock cairn, traverse under the crag until in-between the two wood blocks. Head up hill in the gully (its steep) when you reach the crag head right until you see a large boulder, a faint track should lead up left to the foot of the climb.
jon59 - Lead - 05/Jun/14

A worthwhile route - it's only taken me 20 odd years to get round to climbing it!!:-)
Steveb27 - Solo O/S - 05/May/14

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/14

peakcaver - 2014

nj.harris - 2014

K Dawg - Lead dnf - 11/Oct/13 with Cynon

Cynon - AltLd dnf - Oct/13 with keiran2012

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/13

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 18/Jul/13 with Jenny Kerr

What a pile of rubbish!
HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 13/Jul/13 with Gav Sayer, Kirky

Paul Hy - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Dave S, Umer

tobyk - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Emma Akam

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/13

Cracking little route
chrisdajenk - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Jamie, idioa

jamieevans - Lead - May/13

chris ginge - Lead - 2013

TheAndyBarker - 2013

Richard Kinsman - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - 28/Jul/12

Climbed in order to clean the route. The first pitch, which was the worst, is now pretty much clear of veg, which should also help a bit with the dampness. The remaining pitches were also cleaned, though they were nowhere near as bad. The walk off was also cleared by Huw and Mandy a few weeks back. Go climb!
dansmonkeytroubles - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12 with Huw Gilbert

Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 15/Jul/12 with Cath Sullivan

GPN - Lead - 15/Jul/12 with Annette

net - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with George

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12

Hidden - 25/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12

Super damp and super grim. Bailed on second pitch.
Gary A S - AltLd dnf - 18/Mar/12 with DaveB

Darron - 2012

Hidden - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

TheAndyBarker - 2012

Just a little damp & JT took a factor 2 fall around the 3rd pitch... 1st Classic Rock climb of the week & not looking too great.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Jon Thompson

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/11

In a 3 hour dry spell during the monsoon that was this w/e. P1 started nice went really horrid on filth. All the rest fine and mostly dry. Fun traverse and arete pitch. Started to rain as coiling rope at top :-)
lithos - AltLd - 16/Jul/11

jossjones - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

Climbed with Jules and Mox.
blondie - 2nd - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

First pitch very dirty and overgrown. Rest was enjoyable.
Hexman - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Hannah

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/11

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

bullybones - 2011

Tobias at Home - 2011

Tobias at Home - 2011

sgl0jd - 2011

Lovely day, with only us on the cliff. Ran 1st 2 pitches together without realising. Khalid/Em got off-route on pitch 4, which helped us stay on track (!). Enjoyable climbing and not too hard. If only the arete (pitch 5) was longer...
markhammonds - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Amelia Lloyd

Bloody moss
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10 with JNewbiggin

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/10

Seemed a bit overrated and over graded, tbh. Only one other party on the entire crag though - amazing, given the weather and the number of classic climbs.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Sam Ward

Rosie Henstock - AltLd rpt - 21/May/10 with Tom Green

TGreen - AltLd rpt - 21/May/10 with Rosie Henstock

sonaf - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with Chopper

asmith37 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Bex Leigh

MikeDowsett - AltLd - 2010 with Kris Scheinkonig

An hour walk in; would have been easier to walk straight up from the track; that's how we came back. Fun route in a beautiful setting at the head of a quiet valley
petegruf - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with iona p

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Oct/09

Goody - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Suzie Hughes

Hidden - Lead - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/09

Skullfire - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/09 with Trevor Jones

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 28/Jun/09

Lead fouth and sixth pitch. Harsh walk in Ticks all over
seb m-c - AltLd - 23/Jun/09 with Martin Callaghan

In the rain in big boots
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Paul Black, Dave Ripley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09

berry - May/09 with simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09

samwisethebrave2 - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Robbie

robbie9m - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Sam Roberts

Fairly easy, nice traverse on Tea ledges (keep going left to pass under overhung arete - instinct is to climb diagonally left/upwards to the skylight). Awful walk in was desperate! Ignore upper traverse path, traverse with the fence above plantation and hike directly up to foot of climb. Take a trowel if doing any other routes.
jimorothy - AltLd - 08/Apr/09 with Rachel Crolla

Hidden - Lead - 2009

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/08

donkster - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/08 with DaveNW

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Sep/08

Dave Wearing - AltLd - 26/Jul/08 with Phil Tucker.

dansmonkeytroubles - 2nd O/S - Jun/08 with Joe Harris

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/07

Hidden - 25/Aug/07

First two pitches and ab off tree
psychicbread - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07 with Alex

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 09/Jun/07 with Christian Darr

Led P1,3
mike_hough_uk - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Christine Bailey

chri55ie - AltLd - 02/Jun/07 with Mike Hough

auld al - AltLd O/S - May/07

Tied into Rosie's rope halfway along the 4th pitch
TGreen - Solo dnf - 15/Apr/07 with Rosie Henstock

Rosie Henstock - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Tom Green, Laurence

Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Tom Green, Rosie Henstock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with kai ren

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/07

timmy-ts - 2007

First multi pitch not difficult and plenty of gear placements the traverse is most exciting section with a wide bridge over a long drop.
Chris Harding - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/06 with Dave Stevenson

TGreen - Lead rpt - 28/Jul/06 with Sarah G

Allan Young - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Ronnie Jones, Owen Evans

Horrible walk in (who on earth can do it in 30 mins as per Classic Rock?) was made up for by lovely views, and red kites circling the belay ledges on the thermals. Led pitches 1 and 2 (as one pitch) and 4 and 5.
Caralynh - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Iain Simpson

climbingxcat - 2nd O/S - 07/May/06 with Brian

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/06

Done on the club Burns Night weekend when it was still held at the hut (this was the first one I went to and the first time I had been to the hut). Phil S / Adrian led all but the last pitch, which Phil S let me lead. The route was a bit wet but I don't recall it being particularly cold despite it being January. It did take a long time though as we were climbing in a three and Ken and Jo were in front of us.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Adrian, Phil S

Hidden - Sep/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/05

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/05

Steve Lenartowicz - 2005 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/04

Ann S - AltLd - Jul/03 with Bill Harrison

TGreen - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/03 with Martin G

Howard J - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/02 with Jo Edwards

A bit of a social.
caradoc - AltLd - 23/Mar/02

Mark Collins - AltLd - 2002 with Neil Henson

Hidden - Lead - 13/Oct/01

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Sep/01 with Laura

John Roe - AltLd - 23/Sep/00 with Nige Hughes

Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/00 with Carmen, Peter, Gordon

bullybones - 2000

Darragh - Aug/99 with Rob

haydng - 1999

IanGilbertJones - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/96

Iain Thow - Solo - 31/Aug/96

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 1996 with Dave Oldacres

Dave Toseland - AltLd - 1996 with Parry, Huw

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/95

alan moore - 1995

jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 02/May/94 with DR, WW

stokienomad - 30/Apr/94

Rog Wilko - Lead - Sep/93 with Debbie Wilkinson

Pete Nugent - Solo - 27/Jun/92

babymoac - Lead - 23/Feb/92 with Davy L

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

99bolivar - 2nd - 1990

rogerskews - AltLd - 08/Apr/89 with Martin Coward

Nick Biven - 1987

Nigel Bond - Lead - 18/May/86 with Chris

nigehughes - AltLd - Oct/83 with Steve Caygill

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Mar/82

Ghastly Rubberfeet - AltLd - 1980

Chris Craggs - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/79

with Alan Bennett. Thought it a bag of ....
uphillnow - Solo - 1979

Hidden - 1978

Hidden - 1976

Hidden - Lead - Jun/72

tapley - 04/Apr/72

zukator - 1970

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Total votes cast 75
hard S0 of 37
S0 of 37
easy S0 of 37
hard HVD3 of 37
HVD10 of 37
easy HVD10 of 37
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VD2 of 37
easy VD0 of 37
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP