95m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the all-time Mid Wales classic routes that weaves its way up a stunningly-located buttress. The views and climbing are well worth the effort of both the wait for a dry period and the longish approach drive. The climb gets plenty of ascents and the rock is solid and clear of vegetation.
1) 25m. Climb the cleanest line up leftwards and then back right to a belay below steeper ground.
2) 8m. Move up and then rightwards to out-flank the steepest ground, before accessing good ledges above.
3) 14m. Traverse left along the ledge and continue to a ramp. Move up the ramp and then make an interesting traverse left across a slab before ascending to a good ledge.
4) 14m. Move left along the ledge and continue via a gap to moves slightly down, and then up and leftwards, to a belay at an overhung ledge close to the arete.
5) 8m. Move left around the arete - exposed - and climb steeply on good holds to easier ground and a belay on a tree.
6) 20m. Scramble up to, and then stand on, a large block. Make an awkward move up the corner above and finish up easier ground to grassy ledges on top of the buttress. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start by scrambling up through ferns to a wide slab, in line with the farm buildings.
1.Go easily up the slab heading for a ledge with a small tree on its left end. 2. From the RH end climb steeply on large holds rightwards and up to the capacious 1st Tea ledge. Good nut belays. 3.Traverse left to the 2nd and smaller Tea Ledge 4.Continue traversing left until on the 3rd Ledge, under a small overhang. 5. The crux. Step around the arÍte in an exposed position then climb steeply up to belay at a tree 6. Head left to surmount a block then continue rightwards and up to the top. Descent is up a little further then down the gully. Steep and slippery in the wet.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS.

crag_hopper_Jay 15/May Lead O/S
AngelaC 14/May AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
sarahrowlands 28/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Rich first.

richardsavill 28/Sep/15 AltLd
dobby 200 13/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Guiding Rusty up his first trad route

with rusty
maty500 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

The walk in is as bad as previously described, horrific is the word I'd use. Apart from pitch 5 I'm not sure the route deserves 3 stars.

andrewmcleod 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 2 and 5 (moving together). Horrible walk-in and somewhat disappointing; flashes of brilliance, the odd excellent move but then replaced by more of the same walking across easy ledges or basically scrambling up ramps. We were moving together but protection didn't seem to good either.

Zack 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led 3, 4 and 6 (moving together).

Hidden 11/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead
guy757 27/Jun/15 -
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Karlos 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Perfect conditions. Not a cloud in the sky, preceeded by at least a week of dry weather, and not a soul about. Good route, clean rock and an expansive view. Only problem was that is wasn't long enough. Easy approach if traversing in left from the main path. Steepish grass slopes, but not over grown this early in the season. We decided to extend the day by heading continuing up after topping out - tough work, steep heather clad slopes went on and on! Loads of bilberry bushes but no fruit this early.

with Harriet
Harriet Stewart 18/Apr/15 2nd
with Karl
dobby 200 22/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

I lead P2 and 3. Pitch 4 was awesome!

with Evan
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
suds_01 ??/2015 -
mjeffery 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Dave Richards 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Walk in was hard work (from Solihull MC hut), route was good.

with sjbrook
sjbrook 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Forest pitch didn't feel quite in line with guide book but rest was good. Could be done 1+2, 3+4, 5+6. We did 1, 2+3, 4+5, 6 cos we like rope drag!

with Dave Richards, PMC
Hidden 13/Sep/14 -
Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Pinguville 12/Sep/14 2nd O/S

30 min walk in straight up through rh forest. Run p1+2 together, bit dirty and balancy moves. P3+4 nice long exposed traverse steady and good gear, nice seat belay under the arÍte. P5 exposed around and up the arÍte. P6 up blocks to the top. Nice climbing that gets better, big exposure and nice views. Descent is fine

with George
MD 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Jo led p1 and p2 together. I led p3 and p5. It's possible to run p3 and p4 together.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 07/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Mike D
LP 26/Aug/14 -

Water pooling behind wires in cracks, water running down sleeves, howling winds, crying girlfriends- a proper day out on a lovely little route.

Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd
riff156 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Jo Smith
Gib lip ?/Aug/14 -
Hidden 24/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
cjohn62 20/Jul/14 AltLd
with paul
carl_123 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd
magsb 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Enjoyed once we found the start. Must say the the approach was harder than the climb, although we did take the steepest possible!

with Marion
Babika 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great day and a great route. A real variety of pitches and lovely exposure for the grade. The start is a nightmare to find as its buried in ferns. Started up the wrong route by mistake... Need to start about 75m right of the large scree slope and in line with the farm after scrambling up through vertical greenery. Took a tumble on the descent - crampons would have been helpful....

with Sean Toms
seanprendiville 22/Jun/14 AltLd
with Tessa
Neil Watson 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Agree with last comment about getting to the crag. The Rockfax guide is reasonably good. Would add that once half way between the two wood plantations head up the small scree patch.

Jonny Harrison 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Jordan jones
jon59 05/Jun/14 Lead

The route was not the best I've done for a classic rock route. The approach description is not great it should read. Once you have crossed the stile head up the hill walking away from the crag. When you get about level with top of the two wood blocks on the left look for the faint path marked with a rock cairn, traverse under the crag until in-between the two wood blocks. Head up hill in the gully (its steep) when you reach the crag head right until you see a large boulder, a faint track should lead up left to the foot of the climb.

Steveb27 05/May/14 Solo O/S

A worthwhile route - it's only taken me 20 odd years to get round to climbing it!!:-)

matt.woodfield 23/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
peakcaver ??/2014 -
nj.harris ??/2014 -
K Dawg 11/Oct/13 Lead dnf
with Cynon
Cynon ?/Oct/13 AltLd dnf
with keiran2012
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
Bruce Kerr 18/Jul/13 Lead
with Jenny Kerr
HIGHTOWER 13/Jul/13 2nd

What a pile of rubbish!

with Gav Sayer, Kirky
Paul Hy 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dave S, Umer
tobyk 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Emma Akam
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd
chrisdajenk 06/May/13 2nd

Cracking little route

with Jamie, idioa
jamieevans ?/May/13 Lead
chris ginge ??/2013 Lead
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 21/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 -
dansmonkeytroubles 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Climbed in order to clean the route. The first pitch, which was the worst, is now pretty much clear of veg, which should also help a bit with the dampness. The remaining pitches were also cleaned, though they were nowhere near as bad. The walk off was also cleared by Huw and Mandy a few weeks back. Go climb!

Peter Metcalfe 15/Jul/12 AltLd
GPN 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Annette
net 15/Jul/12 2nd
with George
Graham Westbrook 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 25/May/12 -
with Sarah
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Gary A S 18/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Super damp and super grim. Bailed on second pitch.

with DaveB
Hidden 18/Mar/12 AltLd dnf
Darron ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Alex Thompson 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Just a little damp & JT took a factor 2 fall around the 3rd pitch... 1st Classic Rock climb of the week & not looking too great.

Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead
lithos 16/Jul/11 AltLd

In a 3 hour dry spell during the monsoon that was this w/e. P1 started nice went really horrid on filth. All the rest fine and mostly dry. Fun traverse and arete pitch. Started to rain as coiling rope at top :-)

jossjones 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
blondie 24/Apr/11 2nd

Climbed with Jules and Mox.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hexman 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

First pitch very dirty and overgrown. Rest was enjoyable.

with Hannah
Hidden 23/Mar/11 2nd
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bullybones ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
sgl0jd ??/2011 -
markhammonds 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lovely day, with only us on the cliff. Ran 1st 2 pitches together without realising. Khalid/Em got off-route on pitch 4, which helped us stay on track (!). Enjoyable climbing and not too hard. If only the arete (pitch 5) was longer...

with Amelia Lloyd
Sam Simpson 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bloody moss

Hidden 02/Jul/10 2nd
Rob Exile Ward 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Seemed a bit overrated and over graded, tbh. Only one other party on the entire crag though - amazing, given the weather and the number of classic climbs.

with Sam Ward
Rosie Henstock 21/May/10 AltLd rpt
TGreen 21/May/10 AltLd rpt
sonaf 18/Apr/10 AltLd
with Chopper
asmith37 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett ??/2010 AltLd
with Kris Scheinkonig
petegruf 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

An hour walk in; would have been easier to walk straight up from the track; that's how we came back. Fun route in a beautiful setting at the head of a quiet valley

with iona p
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
Goody 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Suzie Hughes
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd
Skullfire 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Trevor Jones
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd dnf
seb m-c 23/Jun/09 AltLd

Lead fouth and sixth pitch. Harsh walk in Ticks all over

with Martin Callaghan
Tim W 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

In the rain in big boots

Hidden 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
berry ?/May/09 -
with simon
Hidden 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
samwisethebrave2 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Robbie
robbie9m 26/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
jimorothy 08/Apr/09 AltLd

Fairly easy, nice traverse on Tea ledges (keep going left to pass under overhung arete - instinct is to climb diagonally left/upwards to the skylight). Awful walk in was desperate! Ignore upper traverse path, traverse with the fence above plantation and hike directly up to foot of climb. Take a trowel if doing any other routes.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 12/Nov/08 2nd O/S
donkster 12/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with DaveNW
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd
Dave Wearing 26/Jul/08 AltLd
with Phil Tucker.
dansmonkeytroubles ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Joe Harris
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/07 -
psychicbread 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S

First two pitches and ab off tree

with Alex
BALD EAGLE 09/Jun/07 AltLd
with Christian Darr
mike_hough_uk 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3

chri55ie 02/Jun/07 AltLd
auld al ?/May/07 AltLd O/S
TGreen 15/Apr/07 Solo dnf

Tied into Rosie's rope halfway along the 4th pitch

Rosie Henstock 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
edmitchell ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with kai ren
Hidden 20/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Chris Harding 01/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

First multi pitch not difficult and plenty of gear placements the traverse is most exciting section with a wide bridge over a long drop.

with Dave Stevenson
TGreen 28/Jul/06 Lead rpt
with Sarah G
Allan Young 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Ronnie Jones, Owen Evans
Caralynh 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Horrible walk in (who on earth can do it in 30 mins as per Classic Rock?) was made up for by lovely views, and red kites circling the belay ledges on the thermals. Led pitches 1 and 2 (as one pitch) and 4 and 5.

with Iain Simpson
climbingxcat 07/May/06 2nd O/S
with Brian
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Misha 21/Jan/06 AltLd O/S

Done on the club Burns Night weekend when it was still held at the hut (this was the first one I went to and the first time I had been to the hut). Phil S / Adrian led all but the last pitch, which Phil S let me lead. The route was a bit wet but I don't recall it being particularly cold despite it being January. It did take a long time though as we were climbing in a three and Ken and Jo were in front of us.

with Adrian, Phil S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 -
Hidden 11/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/05 Lead
Hidden 30/May/05 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with Clare
Hidden 14/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Ann S ?/Jul/03 AltLd
with Bill Harrison
TGreen 14/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with Martin G
Hidden 02/Jun/02 AltLd
Howard J 20/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Jo Edwards
caradoc 23/Mar/02 AltLd

A bit of a social.

Mark Collins ??/2002 AltLd
with Neil Henson
Hidden 13/Oct/01 Lead
Urgles ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
with Laura
John Roe 23/Sep/00 AltLd
with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?/Sep/00 AltLd
with John Roe
Simon Caldwell 15/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Carmen, Peter, Gordon
bullybones ??/2000 -
Darragh ?/Aug/99 -
with Rob
Hidden ?/Jul/99 2nd
haydng ??/1999 -
IanGilbertJones 31/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 31/Aug/96 Solo
Brian Rodgers ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Dave Oldacres
Dave Toseland ??/1996 AltLd
with Parry, Huw
Hidden 23/Sep/95 AltLd
alan moore ??/1995 -
jim_randell 02/May/94 AltLd O/S
with DR, WW
stokienomad 30/Apr/94 -
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/93 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Pete Nugent 27/Jun/92 Solo
babymoac 23/Feb/92 Lead
with Davy L
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
99bolivar ??/1990 2nd
rogerskews 08/Apr/89 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Nick Biven ??/1987 -
Nigel Bond 18/May/86 Lead
with Chris
Hidden ?/Oct/84 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Oct/83 AltLd
with Steve Caygill
steveb2006 28/Mar/82 AltLd
with Mervyn Dudley
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 AltLd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden 23/Jun/79 Lead
uphillnow ??/1979 Solo

with Alan Bennett. Thought it a bag of ....

Bob M ??/1978 -
with Robert Read
Hidden ??/1976 -
Hidden ?/Jun/72 Lead
tapley 04/Apr/72 -
zukator ??/1970 -
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Votes cast 37
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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