Highland > Beinn Bhan >
 
silver tear*** V 5

Adjacent Climbs
<< Mad Hatter's Gully
 
The Cooler >>
[Beinn Bhan, 2 kb]350m, 7 pitches. Follow the left hand side of the main icefall for 2 pitches to a sloping terrace(120m). Then left and up another ice/ icy mixed pitch to another sloping terrace(60m). Follow a left to right ramp line until under the final crux steep icefall (50m). Climb the icefall to easy snow slopes (40m). Traverse left and up easy snow for 2 more pitches to plateau
N Muir, A Paul 12/Feb/1977

Photo: Beinn Bhan © Stephen Reid - Needle Sports
View all 18 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 22 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Apr/13

A superb climb on a spectacular day, surpassing all expectations. First 2 pitches were just eating up the screws. Crux finish was tricky due to ice forming umbrellas under windy conditions.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 27/Mar/13 with Gary

An outstanding route, one of the best I've done in Scotland. Take wires, hexes, turf hooks and at least 10 ice screws.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/13 with Ewan Lyons

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/13

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/13 with Tom Powell

Ace route
Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/13 with Tom Everett

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 06/Mar/10

Col Kingshott - AltLd - 04/Mar/10

dougs1232 - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/10 with Ben Warrick, Finlay Wild

Thought we were on Silver Tear but looking at the Guide Book [afterwards!] we did Variations on The Cooler, avoiding the grade 6 bits.
John Workman - AltLd - 28/Feb/10 with Lex

We started via the Cooler cos it looked fatter but joined this route for the excellent upper icicle which is currently quite full value for the grade. Nice turfy link pitch to get to this as well....perfect choice in the conditions as Beinn Bhan has very little snow at the moment....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/10 with Sam

Finished up top icicle of this, hollow but what a position...
sgl - AltLd - 27/Feb/10 with chad

sparbus - AltLd - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jan/10

top 2 ice pitches were not in so we traversed right then up. Headtorches in the spindrift to get off the hill.
colinthrelfall - AltLd - 2010 with chris

PaulCunningham - 2010

Charlie wp Hill - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/05

Beautiful remote place, great climb.
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/96 with Pete Benson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adie84, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jamestheyip, Hidden, Hidden, michael83, mikemartin, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, MonkeyDawson, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, Lawrie Brand, gareth r, Hidden, Hidden, Karl Wooffindin, andymoin, Skinny Kin, Neil Adams, Hidden, HIGHTOWER, joe larner, Hidden, French Erick

Voting
Total votes cast 30
hard VI0 of 10
VI0 of 10
easy VI0 of 10
hard V5 of 10
V5 of 10
easy V0 of 10
hard IV0 of 10
IV0 of 10
easy IV0 of 10
hard 60 of 10
60 of 10
easy 60 of 10
hard 53 of 10
57 of 10
easy 50 of 10
hard 40 of 10
40 of 10
easy 40 of 10
3 Stars10 of 10
2 Stars0 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead1 of 22 (4.5%)
Followed1 of 22 (4.5%)
Alt Leads16 of 22 (72.7%)
Unknown4 of 22 (18.2%)

'Climbed'14 of 22 (63.6%)
clean O/S8 of 22 (36.4%)