West Gully* III
[steep ice in west gully, 1 kb]4 pitches. Seems often in condition with a nice icy first pitch and a choice of icy finishes. Easy angled in between. Good choice for a first III

Photo: steep ice in west gully © carpguru
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This climb is in 146 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/15

Mountain Gal - 2nd - 04/Feb/15

JamesRoddie - Solo - 01/Feb/15

tallpaulselfridge - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/15 with John dale

picasso - Solo - 01/Feb/15

John Dale - AltLd - 01/Feb/15 with Paul Selfridge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/15

fall-line - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Sarah Kirton

skirton - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Donald Slater

nich0las - Lead - 13/Apr/13 with Catriona C

Moved together until we reached the ice about half way up and pitched the rest.
Quad - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/13 with Patrick

2nd route of the day. Soloed up to final ice pitch and lead steeper ice on the left. A nice wee route with great ice.
Yourlead - Lead - 08/Apr/13 with Graham Penny

Hidden - Solo - 07/Apr/13

karinh - AltLd - 07/Apr/13 with ivonne

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/13

Bit of an odd one. Passing axes between us and the party ahead.
richy381 - AltLd rpt - 07/Apr/13 with Pascaline

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/13

caro c - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with David B

First Grade 3. Seconded Bobby Motherwell along with Eric Horne. Fantastic climb in great grade 3 condition with some good pure water ice at the top.
Areteroute - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/13

Gazlynn - 2nd - 04/Apr/13 with Andy Giff

Hidden - Solo - 03/Apr/13

Pete23 - AltLd - 01/Apr/13 with Ashley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/13

Quick solo at dawn before work. Good and straightforward conditions, easy for the grade just now.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/13

Leftwards variant at top adds value at III/IV
Jamie B - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Clients

Good ice pitch to finish
Bob1984 - AltLd - 30/Mar/13 with Andy, Alistair Macey

hydraulicwave - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/13

Very thin in places.
Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/13

mark12345 - 2nd - 24/Feb/13

Gman - AltLd - 22/Feb/13 with Jeremy Hart

Dino Dave - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Dad

martinh13 - 2nd - 12/Feb/13 with Kenny

GlennWatson - Solo - 12/Feb/13

PAJames - 10/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/13

More good grade three!! Went up on more interesting ice at the top pitch to the left probably getting closer to grade 4! More miles under the belt.....
010paw - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Andy Watt

Moving together/belaying practice, did the route in 34 mins with the left finish at the top to get some steeper ice in. Probably only II if finishing right.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/13 with Jacob Davies

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead - Feb/13

Hidden - Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/13

Lots of fresh snow about but also some stonking ice(and a wee bit of cruddy stuff too).
konacol - AltLd - 23/Jan/13 with Paul Stewart, Gav Swinton

AndyDWilson - AltLd - 23/Jan/13

chrisicles - 2nd - Jan/13

Jacks20 - AltLd - 2013 with various

Solo'd the fist stages. I did the middle ice pitch and kim did long last pitch. Thin in the middle but do-able. Fun route through good scenery.
oscaig - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Kim Mulji

Led top ice pitch to top! :-)
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/12 with Ian Cramman

Avoided the lower thin looking icefall by a turfy buttress on the right and rejoined gully above this. Second icefall was pretty wet but some good chewy ice was found..
Lawrie Brand - Solo O/S - 02/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12

gripped01 - Lead - 29/Dec/10 with Gilbert

Hidden - 28/Dec/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/10

Sean Bell - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/10 with James Dunn

Can hardly call it alt leads since Nina lead both of the 'real' pitches. Lean conditions. Found it hard.
climberuk - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Nina

riven - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Ollie Kenyon

oliverk - AltLd - 04/Dec/10 with Joe

not in great condition but was ok. lots of powdery snow around the corrie but was not too bad in gully.
alan barnes - AltLd - 01/Dec/10 with chris hig, luke

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Dec/10

Derek Graham - AltLd - 30/Nov/10

John Pickles - Lead rpt - 14/Mar/10 with Work

Elsier - AltLd - 13/Mar/10 with Stuart

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Mar/10

carpguru - AltLd - 11/Mar/10

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/10 with Work

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Mar/10

How does this get III? More like I.
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Tim Clarke

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

Phil Jennings - Solo O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Andy Latham

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

JamieSparkes - AltLd rpt - 06/Mar/10

Soloed to the fork, then I lead P1(55m), Luke lead the rest in one pitch. The chandelier at the top was beautiful.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with P Luke

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Jeanie

Left hand variation, just left of the cool ice cave.
AndyL - Solo O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Phil Jennings

UKC doesn't seem to have a route for the ice wall right of Doctor's Dilemma, accessed by breaking out left from WG before the first ice step. Old SWC book lists this as Junior's Jaunt, which seems to be wrong. Anyway, it provided a nice couple of pitches at II/III, and more interesting than WG itself... but nothing to get really excited about.
andybuckley - AltLd - 06/Mar/10 with Tom Whipple

Soloed lower bit then took the fine ice on the left wall at the top
IceBun - AltLd - 06/Mar/10 with Sandy Simpson

I led 2nd pitch. First lead on ice.
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with masa

An option of some steep ice at the end that was more like IV on which I fell. An amazing looking ice brolley/cave at the top
MikeLeeds - AltLd - 03/Mar/10 with Keith W

Dave Searle - Lead - Mar/10 with gav

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/10

searla - TR - 28/Feb/10 with Sarp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/10

NoelleG - AltLd - 23/Feb/10 with Ed Chard (JG), Claire Molloy

soloed up to final step where ferdia led a steeper alternative for addded interest
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/10 with Adam, Ferdia

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Feb/10

took the harder left hand alternative
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/10 with Adam Russell, Andy

Great, apart from being hit in the chest by a block of ice by a dumb Jagged fucking Globe client, teach them below you dicks
ccrowle - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with magnus

rockamont - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with AllyO

rcammack - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Alistair Rocke

Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Jamie Sparkes

felt good on sharpened tools and took the lead on the crux pitch. pretty pleased!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Liam Ingram

allyrocke - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Robbie

Hidden - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/10

alan.rodger - AltLd - 20/Feb/10 with merlin andrew

Hidden - Solo - 19/Feb/10

The snow sections had large steps all the way up, making that part of the process very easy indeed, the middle ice section was nice, and the top ice section had multiple variations to add interest if one wished. A bit of snow falling (making the drive down Glen Orchy perhaps more dangerous than the climb) the crag was very busy (for midweek) but this route was all ours.
Bokonon - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/10 with Dave

smiler - AltLd - 17/Feb/10 with Bokonon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/10

philboy - AltLd - 16/Feb/10 with matt g

malc - 2nd O/S - 15/Feb/10 with Andy and John

Hidden - 13/Feb/10

Ice Spider - 2nd - 13/Feb/10 with Bob Allan

Bob.allan - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Jason Mitchell

Hidden - Lead - 09/Feb/10

Fantastic ice formations across top of gully
cubehead - 2nd - 09/Feb/10

Pat-H - Lead β - Feb/10

Mhairi G - 2nd - Feb/10 with Patrick

Claire Molloy - AltLd - Feb/10 with Ed Chard JG, Noelle

Lower pitch banked out. First Icefall was getting a bit thinner, with a few holes, but still climbable. The top pitch was thick with good ice, with the odd patch of more fragile ice on the top of good ice.
crostant - Lead - 31/Jan/10 with Gareth

Climbed with Colin. 2nd pitch Ice a bit sketchy with holes. Great first winter climb
Gazlynn - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

Superb. Did the IV,4 top out variation through the steep ice on the left.
johannes - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/10

Nille - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with johannes

abbeywall - AltLd - 24/Jan/10 with K

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jan/10

Excellent fun - two good pitches. First grade 3, followed by an epic drive back to London.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/10 with Darren

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jan/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/Jan/10

mikelaing - 2nd - Jan/10 with Ian Whitehead

first ice ascent
capstanfullstrength - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Liz Outram

Hidden - Lead - 2010

fell off on the first move! managed to get both picks in the same placement. Welcome to ice climbing!
johnmctighe - 2nd - 2010

PaulCunningham - 2010

blakey - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Dec/09

allyrocke - 2nd O/S - 23/Dec/09 with Craig Whitty

martin, nice little easy route,nice icefall finish
Billy Walker - Bad Seller - 2nd rpt - 22/Dec/09

Hidden - Lead - 19/Dec/09

Claire Molloy - 2nd - Feb/09 with Ed Chard JG, Noelle

NoelleG - Lead - Feb/09 with Claire Molloy

alan moore - Solo - 2005

French Erick - Solo - 26/Dec/04

Hidden - Solo - Dec/04

seanyt - AltLd - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

niall_mac - AltLd - Dec/96 with am_bodach

Andy Say - Lead - 11/Feb/95

Hidden - 01/Nov/94

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo - 20/Feb/94 with Chris Ranner

Dave Kerr - Solo - Feb/91 with Phil Robinson

johnkeith - AltLd - Feb/77 with Gordon Niven

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mike_tamanawis, Dustin, Terrance Glancy, franksnb

Total votes cast 73
hard IV0 of 37
IV0 of 37
easy IV0 of 37
hard III3 of 37
III20 of 37
easy III10 of 37
hard II/III3 of 37
II/III1 of 37
easy II/III0 of 37
3 Stars2 of 36
2 Stars21 of 36
1 Star12 of 36
0 Stars1 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat