Rockfax Description
Three pitches. This is the waterfall straight below Vemork. The main attraction is the second pitch which is a free-hanging 'cigar'. Sometimes there are two pillars on this pitch. Stretch the second pitch as it is often difficult to find a sheltered belay for the last pitch which is also very long. A possible variation exit to the left is indicated on the topo. © Rockfax

Stuart Hurworth 28/Feb AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & 3, the pillar was very wet with an obvious melt chute in the middle. Very stepped out and lots of loose bits where it has been hacked/melted. Hard but fun, although was like climbing a vertical ladder. Hooked all the way but had a scare when one axe came flying out as I pulled up - kept it together though. Top pitch has hollow ice, but easy climbing.

with Steve Graham
SPD224 25/Feb Lead dnf

Lead the first pitch up to the belay but decided to rapp off as the light was failing.

with Rhiannon Lawrence-Francis, Becky Lee, Martin Smith
Hidden 25/Feb 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick ?/Feb AltLd O/S

Lead the crux second pitch

with Stanley
Big Lee 25/Jan AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch up the steep sections. Main column was hooked-out so felt very steady.

GarethSL 25/Jan Lead dnf
with Eugene Kiltenik
annak 25/Jan AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 22/Jan AltLd O/S

Led the pillar on P2 and abseiled off at the cave once the angle eased. Great pitch with natural hooks - relaxed and enjoyable.

ecromwell 11/Jan Lead

Pinkpointed crux pitch using Alex's screws. Bloody scary committing to the climb but when I was on it felt sustained but fine, wish I had led it without his screws!

with Alison Cromwell
alexm198 10/Jan AltLd O/S

First WI5! In 3 pitches. Led P2, crux pillar. Ice wasn't too solid, each placement required considerable excavation. Got a good 'a cheval' rest in a groove in the pillar at 1/3 height. Took a microwave sized block of ice to the chest while trying to get good sticks and bloodied my chin knocking down more ice further up. Gnarly!

Hidden 10/Jan AltLd O/S
Curly Rich ?/Jan Lead dnf


HP9 ?/Jan 2nd
with Paddy cave
andy dunn 02/Mar/14 2nd dnf

Abandoned climb after the first pitch. Quite why J decided to climb what I described as a chossy waterfall was beyond me. Was dripping quite a bit...

with J
Happy Wanderer 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Went to do Bakveien but fancied this one instead. Awesome route though 1st pitch unfirm and shortened by deep snow and upper section very slushy, with P2 very steep pillar to give the WI5 this time round. Led P1 and P3, Piers Led scary P2. Fab route somewhat ruined by hideously rude Italians - admirably strong climbers but poor manners and no patience as they climber over our ropes and wrapped their ropes over everyone else at the 2nd belay. Despicably bad manners.

with Emma Fulton, Piers Fulton
Hidden 22/Feb/14 AltLd
Pay Attention 21/Feb/14 Lead
with Stewart Young
James Thacker 17/Feb/14 -
with Kris Hill
Pay Attention 17/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Today there was a pair of Italian climbers, middle aged men, in the Upper Gorge. It's said they did Lipton recently. Today in their red jackets they overtook the various teams that were already on Saboterfossen and caused a bit of irritation when they abseiled back down through the ropes. Next was Nye Vemorkfoss. The first guy led up quickly from the base, directly up to the belay at the end of the hard pitch. He avoided taking the usual route to a ledge with a bolt - where I had already taken stance. I did ask in English if he minded us waiting while he did the route we had already started but it didn't get a response. So he abseiled down and I set off. Before I reached the left side of the pillar Italian #2 had got in ahead going up the same way. I had the choice of climbing directly behind him, or waiting under a dripping chandelier until he'd finished. Unfortunately he did not understand the various expressions in various languages that I tried to communicate. And I don't have a command of bad Italian. Anyway forgive and forget is my motto. It's not a problem. One thousand krone to anyone who brings me both their heads in a bag.

with Stewart Young
chris smith 22/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
danJBA 22/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 21/Jan/14 AltLd

Great fun

with Dave Amoss
Matt Barnes 20/Jan/14 AltLd rpt
with John V
mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/13 -
BorisVBlade 22/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, really fun.

with Arnaud Sors
Adam Booth 09/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

So hooked, was a joke! Great fun.

edmitchell 09/Feb/12 AltLd
Steve Hillier 09/Feb/12 AltLd rpt
robertmichaeladams 05/Feb/12 Lead
with Lawrence
wence 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Dale ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

I lead the first and last pitch. Got a bit gripped on 1st pitch had to have a talking with my self got the heart going great fun. The hanging cigar is amazing the hooks wow the hooks. Best ice route I've ever done so far smiling all the way

with Tim
HIGHTOWER 18/Jan/12 2nd

Only first pitch, about WI3, at the end of the day and abbed off.

with Mark Falcus, Martin (Leeming)
elProxy 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches. Nice route, one of the few with still tons of blue ice at that time.

with Jean Raynard
Tim Bateman 26/Feb/11 Lead

Well formed and in good condition. All the old metalwork has now been cleared from the bottom pitch so Bakvein now looks a bit different

with George Bird
Hidden 24/Feb/11 2nd
Dibdawg 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

1st n' 3rd pitches with Ian on the crux pitch!

smudge 16/Feb/11 AltLd
with Rob
robertmichaeladams 13/Feb/11 AltLd
with Tom
tomdude 13/Feb/11 AltLd
with rob
The Bad Cough 06/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
jon22 06/Feb/11 AltLd
Mr Wild 01/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Main Pitch, belay bottom left of pillar to maximise the fun

with George
Hidden 31/Jan/11 -
simonward 30/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
DundeeDave 24/Jan/11 2nd dog
with Bill White, Ewan Gourlay
alan1234 ??/2011 Lead O/S
Paul Hastwell ?/Mar/10 -
Henrik 23/Feb/10 2nd
with Josef + Joakim
Hidden 21/Feb/10 AltLd dog
machars 15/Feb/10 AltLd
with Ben Smith
tuukka 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Juha
juhah 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
AdrianP 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Matti L.
Bex_M 09/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Barra
John Roe 24/Jan/10 AltLd
with Joey Durkin
Matt Bennett 21/Jan/10 Solo dnf

soloed first pitch to aid a rescue

richardlong78 ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Dave Gleave
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
Alexandre Buisse ?/Dec/09 -
Nicos 03/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with stuart mcinnes
graniterocks 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Cecilie Grønhaug
Hidden 28/Jan/09 Lead
DanielJ 15/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with anders
Jamie Degel ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
bengt ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Mr Spoons 09/Mar/08 AltLd

Last day in Rjukan, excellent route and I got the hard pitch.

with Ollie
orb 09/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Simon Fairman
lithos 08/Mar/08 Lead

All 3 pitches with steve, bit wet but not very steep and more like 4

with Steve Boxall
MoWalker3 06/Mar/08 -
Neilm18 01/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with michael mcghie
Hidden 27/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with tris fox, mark mosgrove
michael83 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Mosgrove
Will Homoky 07/Feb/08 AltLd RP

Lead P1. Finished P2 after we bailed in previous year.

with Tom Hindson
Simon Palmer ?/Feb/08 Lead dog
with Hallvar
Drapes ?/Feb/08 2nd
with Rosie Goolden
John Roe 30/Jan/08 Lead

Led all three pitches

with Marcus Littler
centurion05 ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
davidgent ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 3.

with Kilian
Hidden ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
andysroom ?/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (WI5)

Hidden 09/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
lithos 09/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

led 1st (solo!) an 3rd pitch - bit Scotish. Steep middle, wet pitch cruised by tony,peg in the cave

with TonyM
Hidden 24/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Fultonius 10/Feb/07 AltLd

Climbed with Neal Adams as a 3, ropes got frozen to ice and all manners of faff ensued!

andyinglis 10/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, excellent route, hardest ice route on the trip. Pity about ropes freezing into the ice!

with Ally Fulton, neil adams
Neil Adams 10/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Andy I & Ally F
Ramon Marin 23/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with Ben Gilbert
charlesmfrench 05/Mar/06 AltLd O/S


with Ole Henning
Smelly Fox 24/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 2.

with Matt Croll
French Erick 01/Feb/06 AltLd dog

Spent too much time placing screws. I had to weigh one done.

with Jim Hall
Hidden ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High WI5+
Mid WI5+
Low WI5+
High WI5
Mid WI5
Low WI5
High WI4+
Mid WI4+
Low WI4+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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