Nye Vemorkfoss** WI5
[Guiding Nye Vemorkfoss (WI5), stringing the first two pitches together, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Three pitches. This is the waterfall straight below Vemork. The main attraction is the second pitch which is a free-hanging 'cigar'. Sometimes there are two pillars on this pitch. Stretch the second pitch as it is often difficult to find a sheltered belay for the last pitch which is also very long. A possible variation exit to the left is indicated on the topo. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Guiding Nye Vemorkfoss (WI5), stringing the first two pitches together © alan1234
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This climb is in 97 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Lead P1 & 3, the pillar was very wet with an obvious melt chute in the middle. Very stepped out and lots of loose bits where it has been hacked/melted. Hard but fun, although was like climbing a vertical ladder. Hooked all the way but had a scare when one axe came flying out as I pulled up - kept it together though. Top pitch has hollow ice, but easy climbing.
Stuart Hurworth - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/15 with Steve Graham

Lead the first pitch up to the belay but decided to rapp off as the light was failing.
SPD224 - Lead dnf - 25/Feb/15 with Rhiannon Lawrence-Francis, Becky Lee, Martin Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/15

Lead the crux second pitch
Richard Kendrick - AltLd O/S - Feb/15 with Stanley

Lead the second pitch up the steep sections. Main column was hooked-out so felt very steady.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/15 with Anna Kennedy

GarethSL - Lead dnf - 25/Jan/15 with Eugene Kiltenik

annak - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/15 with Lee Harrison

Led the pillar on P2 and abseiled off at the cave once the angle eased. Great pitch with natural hooks - relaxed and enjoyable.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/15

Pinkpointed crux pitch using Alex's screws. Bloody scary committing to the climb but when I was on it felt sustained but fine, wish I had led it without his screws!
ecromwell - Lead - 11/Jan/15 with Alison Cromwell

First WI5! In 3 pitches. Led P2, crux pillar. Ice wasn't too solid, each placement required considerable excavation. Got a good 'a cheval' rest in a groove in the pillar at 1/3 height. Took a microwave sized block of ice to the chest while trying to get good sticks and bloodied my chin knocking down more ice further up. Gnarly!
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/15 with Simon Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/15

Curly Rich - Lead dnf - Jan/15

HP9 - 2nd - Jan/15 with Paddy cave

Abandoned climb after the first pitch. Quite why J decided to climb what I described as a chossy waterfall was beyond me. Was dripping quite a bit...
andy dunn - 2nd dnf - 02/Mar/14 with J

Went to do Bakveien but fancied this one instead. Awesome route though 1st pitch unfirm and shortened by deep snow and upper section very slushy, with P2 very steep pillar to give the WI5 this time round. Led P1 and P3, Piers Led scary P2. Fab route somewhat ruined by hideously rude Italians - admirably strong climbers but poor manners and no patience as they climber over our ropes and wrapped their ropes over everyone else at the 2nd belay. Despicably bad manners.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Emma Fulton, Piers Fulton

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/14

Pay Attention - Lead - 21/Feb/14 with Stewart Young

James Thacker - 17/Feb/14 with Kris Hill

Today there was a pair of Italian climbers, middle aged men, in the Upper Gorge. It's said they did Lipton recently. Today in their red jackets they overtook the various teams that were already on Saboterfossen and caused a bit of irritation when they abseiled back down through the ropes. Next was Nye Vemorkfoss. The first guy led up quickly from the base, directly up to the belay at the end of the hard pitch. He avoided taking the usual route to a ledge with a bolt - where I had already taken stance. I did ask in English if he minded us waiting while he did the route we had already started but it didn't get a response. So he abseiled down and I set off. Before I reached the left side of the pillar Italian #2 had got in ahead going up the same way. I had the choice of climbing directly behind him, or waiting under a dripping chandelier until he'd finished. Unfortunately he did not understand the various expressions in various languages that I tried to communicate. And I don't have a command of bad Italian. Anyway forgive and forget is my motto. It's not a problem. One thousand krone to anyone who brings me both their heads in a bag.
Pay Attention - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/14 with Stewart Young

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/14

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/14 with chris smith

Great fun
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 21/Jan/14 with Dave Amoss

Matt Barnes - AltLd rpt - 20/Jan/14 with John V

mileshill540 - AltLd - 2014

Hidden - 04/Feb/13

Lead pitch 2, really fun.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/12 with Arnaud Sors

So hooked, was a joke! Great fun.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/12 with Ben Warrick

edmitchell - AltLd - 09/Feb/12 with Steve Hillier

Steve Hillier - AltLd rpt - 09/Feb/12 with edwin mitchell

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 05/Feb/12 with Lawrence

wence - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/12 with Rob

I lead the first and last pitch. Got a bit gripped on 1st pitch had to have a talking with my self got the heart going great fun. The hanging cigar is amazing the hooks wow the hooks. Best ice route I've ever done so far smiling all the way
Dale - AltLd O/S - Feb/12 with Tim

Only first pitch, about WI3, at the end of the day and abbed off.
HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 18/Jan/12 with Mark Falcus, Martin (Leeming)

Lead all 3 pitches. Nice route, one of the few with still tons of blue ice at that time.
elProxy - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with Jean Raynard

Well formed and in good condition. All the old metalwork has now been cleared from the bottom pitch so Bakvein now looks a bit different
Tim Bateman - Lead - 26/Feb/11 with George Bird

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Feb/11

1st n' 3rd pitches with Ian on the crux pitch!
Dibdawg - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/11

smudge - AltLd - 16/Feb/11 with Rob

robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 13/Feb/11 with Tom

tomdude - AltLd - 13/Feb/11 with rob

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/11 with John Sealey

jon22 - AltLd - 06/Feb/11 with The Bad Cough

Main Pitch, belay bottom left of pillar to maximise the fun
Mr Wild - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/11 with George

Hidden - 31/Jan/11

simonward - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

DundeeDave - 2nd dog - 24/Jan/11 with Bill White, Ewan Gourlay

alan1234 - Lead O/S - 2011

Paul Hastwell - Mar/10 with Paul Burgess

Henrik - 2nd - 23/Feb/10 with Josef + Joakim

Hidden - AltLd dog - 21/Feb/10

machars - AltLd - 15/Feb/10 with Ben Smith

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Juha

juhah - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/10 with Tuukka Holopainen

AdrianP - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with Matti L.

Bex_M - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/10 with Barra

John Roe - AltLd - 24/Jan/10 with Joey Durkin

soloed first pitch to aid a rescue
Matt Bennett - Solo dnf - 21/Jan/10

richardlong78 - AltLd - Jan/10 with Dave Gleave

Hidden - 2nd - 2010

Alexandre Buisse - Dec/09

Nicos - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/09 with stuart mcinnes

graniterocks - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Cecilie Grønhaug

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jan/09

DanielJ - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/09 with anders

Jamie Degel - Lead O/S - Jan/09 with volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)

Jamie Simpson - 2009

bengt - AltLd O/S - 2009

Last day in Rjukan, excellent route and I got the hard pitch.
Mr Spoons - AltLd - 09/Mar/08 with Ollie

orb - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Simon Fairman

All 3 pitches with steve, bit wet but not very steep and more like 4
lithos - Lead - 08/Mar/08 with Steve Boxall

MoWalker3 - 06/Mar/08

Neilm18 - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with michael mcghie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/08

s kennedy - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08 with tris fox, mark mosgrove

michael83 - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08 with Neil Mosgrove

Lead P1. Finished P2 after we bailed in previous year.
Will Homoky - AltLd RP - 07/Feb/08 with Tom Hindson

Simon Palmer - Lead dog - Feb/08 with Hallvar

Drapes - 2nd - Feb/08 with Rosie Goolden

Led all three pitches
John Roe - Lead - 30/Jan/08 with Marcus Littler

centurion05 - Lead O/S - Jan/08

Led pitch 1 and 3.
davidgent - AltLd O/S - Jan/08 with Kilian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

Led P2 (WI5)
andysroom - AltLd O/S - Jan/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/07

led 1st (solo!) an 3rd pitch - bit Scotish. Steep middle, wet pitch cruised by tony,peg in the cave
lithos - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/07 with TonyM

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/07

Climbed with Neal Adams as a 3, ropes got frozen to ice and all manners of faff ensued!
Fultonius - AltLd - 10/Feb/07 with Andy Inglis

Lead P2, excellent route, hardest ice route on the trip. Pity about ropes freezing into the ice!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/07 with Ally Fulton, neil adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/07 with Andy I & Ally F

Ramon Marin - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/06 with Ben Gilbert

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Ole Henning

Lead pitches 1 and 2.
Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/06 with Matt Croll

Spent too much time placing screws. I had to weigh one done.
French Erick - AltLd dog - 01/Feb/06 with Jim Hall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

plain kitten - Lead - 2000

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Total votes cast 35
hard WI5+0 of 18
WI5+0 of 18
easy WI5+0 of 18
hard WI52 of 18
WI58 of 18
easy WI57 of 18
hard WI4+1 of 18
WI4+0 of 18
easy WI4+0 of 18
3 Stars12 of 17
2 Stars5 of 17
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP