Restricted Access
July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
The parallel line to the left of Bushmaster starting up the groove round to its left. The route starts 10m right of the chain of Razor's edge, at a rib just right of a rusty pipe.
1) 6a, 35m. Follow the rib as it rises leftwards until it reaches a corner. Surmount this and scramble up to the bolt and shot-hole in the bay above - possible belay. Climb the groove boldly to good gear near the top and some tricky exit moves to a good belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Continue in the same line to belay in the corner down and right of the roofs.
3) 6b, 40m. Traverse left from the belay and get some gear in a thin groove in the arete. Climb up and left into a bold and insecure groove, which leads back to the right to a good rest before the roof. Assemble some poor small wires and skyhooks before tackling the V-groove in the roof. Very committing moves up the groove lead to some good but hard-to-place gear, then an easier pull over the roof and a pleasant finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6a, 5b, 6b Takes a parallel line to the left of Bushmaster starting up the groove round to its left. 1.) Climb the groove boldly to good gear near the top and some tricky exit moves to a good belay. 2.) Continue in the same line to belay in the corner down and right of the roofs. 3.) Traverse left from the belay and get some gear in a thin groove in the arete. Climb up and left into a bold and insecure groove which leads back to the right to a good rest before the roof. Assemble some poor small wires and sky hooks before tackling the V groove in the roof. Very committing moves up the groove lead to some good but difficult to place gear before an easier pull over the roof and a pleasant finish.
Calum Muskett, Steve Long, Mark Dicken and Gabby Lees 03/Jul/2015.
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Guidebooks for Twll Mawr
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Professor Whittaker
Grade: E7 6b ***
(Cilan Head)