Rockfax Description
One of Dartmoor's finest. A gritstonesque climb that packs in some athletic and technical moves. Start on a flat-topped block below the left end of the huge overhang in the centre of the main face. Pull up directly into the corner, left of the overhang, and place some good gear before swinging out to the arete on a horizontal break just above the lip of the overhang. Gain a flake on the face around the arete and make a couple of tricky moves to leave it and enter the base of a good crack. Follow the crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
50'. Surmounting the big roof at half height, using obvious hanging flake on the left end of the overhang. Pull round the flake (good photo opportunity) and reach a second flake on the exposed face. Crank up on this flake to gain a crimp allowing you to pull into a vertical crack. Follow this to near the top where balanced moves allow you to gain the finishing jug out to the right.

Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 23/Apr/1976

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Davros the Psyched 03/Oct Lead O/S
Joe Costello 07/Jul Lead O/S
dbrooks 26/May Lead G/U

2nd attempt, made it to the flake but fell just beneath the crack first time round... found the top out a bit scary, think I made it harder than it needed to be! great route, probably the best I've done on Dartmoor

with John
petegunn 08/Apr Lead


with Davina
darcan 14/Mar Lead rpt
nickstephens 01/Mar Lead dnf
with Darcan
darcan 01/Mar Lead dog

Best climb on dartmoor

with nick
snook 05/Oct/14 2nd dog
supersouthward 05/Oct/14 -
Hidden 24/Jul/14 Lead
Bristoldave 21/May/14 Lead rpt
with Dave Coley, Mark
hornbywill 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed clean went left at the top ended up lying on the top of the crag a bit close to the edge

R2B 16/Apr/14 Lead

Brilliant evening climb! Awesome sunset blessed my first crag length fall. Went through the crux fine once I realized what had to be done. Placed one last nut below the bulging finish. Mantled on to the top (direct and unbelievably mossy finish) and slipped. Lobbed off to just below the flake overhang. I'd guess around 15 meters. Excellent!! Pulled back to the top and went left. Easier finish but apparently right is even easier. Amazing route!

with Charlotte
Hidden ?/Oct/13 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Cherry Bedford
andy_pemberton 10/Jul/13 Lead

Smoother today.

with Sarah Massey
Hidden 15/May/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd dog
skeight88 ?/May/13 TR
with Dominic
skeight88 ?/May/13 TR
with Dominic
Owen W-G 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Cruised the move around the arete (no crazy heel hooking, just frogged it) and subsequent crux. Top out was an unexpected treat. Best route of its grade on the Tors?

Matt77 26/Apr/13 2nd dog

A good lead by the Southerner. Would've shit myself on this if I'd had a go!

with Owen
kingholmesy ??/2013 -

Finished direct.

with David SDMC
Cheese Monkey 27/Oct/12 2nd dog

Just didnt quite have the strength/technique to reach the flake, so got spat off into space. So aided up past. One day I will nail it!

Jordon Fleming 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

WOW ! what a climb really wild crux and lovely layback to the top out which was also intresting ! but really good route if u are good at high heel hooks

Stanners 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Got stuck after struggling my way over to the flake. Just couldn't get into the crack above. Either I missed something or its fecking desperate. Good gear thankfully. Bat hanged the lip afterwards for a laugh.

with James Rich, Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 21/Oct/12 Lead dnf

I think this is pretty hard for E2, there are two main methods for doing the crux each of which present their own set of problems in the end you have to just pick one and throw yourself at it. Unfortunately I picked the more powerful one and realised when going for the flake that I didn't have enough strength to get it despite having some crazy heel toe cam above my head.

burto 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
andy_pemberton 19/Sep/12 Lead dog

Messed up the crux reach and got pumped faffing about!

with Dave Marshall
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
zachbassett10 23/Mar/12 TR β

really fun move on flake wishlist to lead in many years

mark schramm 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
with tom m
tommoulds 25/Feb/12 2nd
with Schramm
Tom D ??/2012 TR

lead next time

Cragrat Rich 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Worth stopping in for, but only just. Needed good agility round the corner and then everything gets rounded with nifty footwork needed both from the flake and at 'that topout' - Phew!

Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark schramm 27/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Frostie 26/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Just ran out of puff after move to flake, disappointed with performance but recovering from heavy cold.

dmoir 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Lauren and Rosie
Justin T 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Gilster 24/Apr/11 Lead
with Ethel
Mr Tickle 21/Apr/11 Lead dog

Great traverse but struggled with the move off the flake. Went straight at the top to the slopey top out...very interesting!

with davenev
Bristoldave 17/Apr/11 Lead RP

Bit disappointed to blow onsight. Great route though.

with nick
Frostie 12/Apr/11 Lead

Rested on ropes, no major falls, Tough move up to flake, good climb to have on wish list.

culmclimberRob 09/Apr/11 Lead RP

amazing move up to the flake just had trouble with the move off the flake to the crack, but what a great climb

with Aaron baker
jcook1980 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Dan Walker
leohl ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Deranged. Brilliant.

with James P
jamespilgrim 07/Aug/10 2nd dnf
El3ctroFuzz 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Found it to be oki. Lovely Bird Shite :) Finished Direct at the top, above a nut i poorly placed, thinking it was easy. Didnt realise i could go right to the Jug.. Lol. Just another 5c bit, but very irreversible.

with Chris Full
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
drewish 19/Jun/10 2nd dog

oh dear..

with Matt, SteveE9
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
JeromeT ?/Jun/09 Lead
petegunn 24/May/09 Lead dnf

too tired to do the move off the flake, high leg needed!very good route though, one for next visit

with Davina
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd
Tobes ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Peter
misterb 21/Sep/08 2nd

amazing climb,3 hard moves in the middle of relaxed climbing

with dave
Dave Searle 21/Sep/08 Lead

The best E2 i've done.

with Nick
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Mar/07 Lead rpt
with Sinbad
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 TR dog
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/05 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 17/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 13/May/00 Lead
with Rob Galley
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/98 Lead
with Rich Mayfield, Steve Gooberman Hill
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
joeurwin, Hidden, Hidden, Will Mortimer, Alex the Alex, Hidden, snook, chris ebbutt, hutchay, Hidden, lewiz, Hidden, Adam_42, Hidden, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Urgles, Infinite Granite, Master Chief, elbeanio, Dale Turrell, Hidden, Hidden, Motown, Chris Ellyatt, Noodles, grumpyoldjanner, Kemics, joese7en, Hidden, Hidden, wonky, Phil79, Batt, francois
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set