Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Start 3m right of Diagonal below a short roof-capped corner. A good first pitch but a more serious loose/shattered second.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb up and out of the roof-capped corner and then to the upper roof. Pull over to a reach a belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb above the belay then move right to a rib. Climb this until a large detached block allows a move left into the exit groove. Step out right at the top to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the trianglar niche just right of the corner of Diagonal. Climb straight up the corner and over the roof to good nut belay. Climb above the belay then move right to rib. Climb this till a large detached block lets you move left into the exit groove. Step out right at the top.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| alex_shurik | 5 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 1st pitch is excellent, but the 2nd pitch was incredibly loose, even for Swanage. A massive rock fell off near the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The 1st pitch is excellent, but the 2nd pitch was incredibly loose, even for Swanage. A massive rock fell off near the top. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Freda
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)