Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A very good pitch. Begin at the large open corner. Take the corner for 10m to a thread and transfer to a ledge to its left (peg). Follow the small rib above until moves rightward reach a thread (not in place) just left of the base of the Yr Herwehla narrow corner/groove high on the face. From a foot-ledge above, (peg) locate a small, thin, left-leading crack and make some intricate moves up it and the wall above to reach a good break (some shattered rock here). Go right 2m and then up easy angled rock and some flakes to a belay on The Easy Way Down ledges. It is possible to descend from the Microserf lower-off after the hardest climbing. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Caution: There was a fall on Valley Forge on 27/2/22 that may have damaged the thread, please be aware.
Wye Valley Starred E1-E3 , The Local Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jobangles | 27 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Death block trundled, and a few other fairly large loose pieces of rock removed. Thread looks good and fresh. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Death block trundled, and a few other fairly large loose pieces of rock removed. Thread looks good and fresh. |
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jobangles | 25 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: There's an absolute death block teetering, ready to fall about 2/3rds up the route, roughly in line with where Microserf's headwall starts | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's an absolute death block teetering, ready to fall about 2/3rds up the route, roughly in line with where Microserf's headwall starts |
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Cheese Monkey | 5 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: There's only one fixed thread which confusingly is the one in the description above as not being in place. New cord has been added | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's only one fixed thread which confusingly is the one in the description above as not being in place. New cord has been added |
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Josh-R | 27 Feb, 2022 |
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βeta: A climber fell from the first thread on this route and the tat may now be compromised (friction damage) - can the crag moderator please review or ideally replace? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A climber fell from the first thread on this route and the tat may now be compromised (friction damage) - can the crag moderator please review or ideally replace? |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Nailbridge)