UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

30m.

Rockfax Description
A testing line that is sustained and features plenty of good and varied moves. High in the grade. Start at the base of the easy-angled arete on the left side of the main slab. Move up the arete for 5m and transfer to cracks in the slab on the right. Follow the right-trending cracks all the way to the top passing a very thin section at two-thirds height. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The far left, just r of the arete itself. Variations for the top; stay at the same angle or bear left on large hollow flakes.

I Bentley & N Tritton 15/Sep/1976.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
wilsers 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Other flakes around the scar sound very hollow. Pull gently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Other flakes around the scar sound very hollow. Pull gently.
Snyggapa 10 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The previously mentioned loose flake is now merely a shiny patch of new rock and adds to the excitement at about 2/3 height. Awkward step right now needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The previously mentioned loose flake is now merely a shiny patch of new rock and adds to the excitement at about 2/3 height. Awkward step right now needed.
lcoleman86 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Currently a loose bloc about 2/3rds up, close to sliding off and about the size of standard kitchen cupboard door. 6/6/21
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently a loose bloc about 2/3rds up, close to sliding off and about the size of standard kitchen cupboard door. 6/6/21

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 62
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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