Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A testing line that is sustained and features plenty of good and varied moves. High in the grade. Start at the base of the easy-angled arete on the left side of the main slab. Move up the arete for 5m and transfer to cracks in the slab on the right. Follow the right-trending cracks all the way to the top passing a very thin section at two-thirds height. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The far left, just r of the arete itself. Variations for the top; stay at the same angle or bear left on large hollow flakes.
I Bentley & N Tritton 15/Sep/1976.
West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon
User | Date | Notes | ||
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wilsers | 28 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Other flakes around the scar sound very hollow. Pull gently. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Other flakes around the scar sound very hollow. Pull gently. |
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Snyggapa | 10 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The previously mentioned loose flake is now merely a shiny patch of new rock and adds to the excitement at about 2/3 height. Awkward step right now needed. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The previously mentioned loose flake is now merely a shiny patch of new rock and adds to the excitement at about 2/3 height. Awkward step right now needed. |
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lcoleman86 | 6 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Currently a loose bloc about 2/3rds up, close to sliding off and about the size of standard kitchen cupboard door. 6/6/21 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Currently a loose bloc about 2/3rds up, close to sliding off and about the size of standard kitchen cupboard door. 6/6/21 |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)