UKC

Restricted Access

Ementhal Zawn - birds have Fledged so access can be returned for 2023. 

from 15/06/2023 to 31/07/2023

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended for 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. 

18m. This is actually in Horn Zawn, there are not two separate zawns as described in Gogarth North. A fine wee adventure, very easy for the grade but slightly exposed. Break through the North wall bulges via a notch, then traverse fairly easily above the lip towards the cave. It all feels a bit committing but holds and gear keep appearing to enable a finish up the slanting slab.

Ticklists

The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside)

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Guidebooks for The Range

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
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Route of Interest
The Sun

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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