Verdon Gorge > Gorges du Verdon >
 
L'éperon Sublime*** 6b

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150m, 8 pitches. 1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b, 6) 6b & A1, 7) 6a+, 8) 5. Sublime indeed, a bit polished with it, but still sublime! Carry a small rack to plug the gaps. Start round to the right of the pillar and climb the groove and cracks until on the fifth pitch an unlikely looking traverse heads out left into the middle of nowhere. The wall above the tree is 7a if done free, though a bit of aid is the norm. Pitches 4 and 5 can be linked with 60m ropes if required. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

jcw - 2014

Same day 'enchainement' of Eperon Sublime + Luna Bong = Eperon Bong / Luna Sublime!!!
John Carney - 2nd - 26/Aug/13 with Adam George

Beautiful situations all the way up the route. First pitch was quite green i.e. full of plants, but this soon cleared. Loved the traverse, a Though I overgripped from the situation and had a mid-rest. Tried the difficult 7a pitch as second, understood what to do (thanks Alan) but ended up grabbing a QuickDraw. Really enjoyed.
Robin Brooke - 2nd - May/13 with alan carne

Great route for us - superb 5c juggy cracks up until the hand traverse! I led that but needed some aid - couldn't lock off on one arm and clip bolts with feet smearing on the polish! Chris "blew a fuse" at the top of the 7a pitch - aided the first bit ok but we found the final overhang too hard for 6a+ - and the big block you end up hanging off to get over it seems only to be attached to the crag by the broken tat wedged on either side of it - scary! Meant to do Luna Bong but bird banned until August due to nesting vultures.
Cheshire Dave - AltLd - 09/Jun/12 with Chris

Goucho - May/12

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Vince

David Smith - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/11

P 1 - 4 aided through the 7a move
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Chris James

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06

K1 - 2006

Hidden - May/95

Hidden - 1990

Top few pitches only
Neil R - AltLd - 29/Apr/89 with Howard

Partner went bonkers from thirst and tried to climb solo. I aided 5b pitch to get us out.
eroica64 - AltLd - 07/Sep/88 with John Graeme

andy gittins - 1986

jasper11 - Lead - 1985

Abseiled in down luna bong to find we had left the topo at the top! Found the route but got the pitch lengths very wrong with both of us climbing together for 50' for john to get to a belay.
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Sep/84 with John Topping

2 aid points
Nigel Coe - AltLd dog - Apr/84 with Pete Oxley

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/82

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/82 with Irish George

Best route we did in the Gorge, perfect limestone with pockets where required, not at all frightening (unlike the rest of them!)
petemeads - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Chip Chilton

Falko - AltLd O/S - 1982 with Chris Plant

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/81

keefe - Aug/81

Mark Kemball - AltLd - Sep/80

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/80

dtalbot - AltLd - Jun/80 with Rory O'Conor

Hidden - AltLd dog - Apr/80

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ChrisBrooke, pc1983, Hidden, Hidden, Morgan Woods

Voting
Total votes cast 9
hard 7a0 of 4
7a4 of 4
easy 7a0 of 4
hard 6c+0 of 4
6c+0 of 4
easy 6c+0 of 4
hard 6c0 of 4
6c0 of 4
easy 6c0 of 4
hard 6b+0 of 4
6b+0 of 4
easy 6b+0 of 4
hard 6b0 of 4
6b0 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a+0 of 4
6a+0 of 4
easy 6a+0 of 4
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent

Lead4 of 31 (12.9%)
Followed2 of 31 (6.5%)
Alt Leads17 of 31 (54.8%)
Unknown8 of 31 (25.8%)

'Climbed'21 of 31 (67.7%)
clean O/S8 of 31 (25.8%)
dogged2 of 31 (6.5%)