Goddess of Gloom** HVS 5a
[Steve Whitfeild on Goddess of Gloom, 2 kb]63m. Sustained climbing on a strong line-up the wall left of the Great Cave. Start on a good tidal ledge at the base of a large corner with two overhangs.. 1) 5a, 16m. Climb the corner to below the first overhang and pass it via moves on the right wall. Continue to the overhang at the top of the corner and move right and then up to a small stance.. 2) 5a, 17m. Above is a vegetated crack. Climb the wall left of the crack, then trend rightwards across the top of the crack and climb to a stance on a pedestal (this is also the second stance of Moonraker). If clear of vegetation, the crack itself can be climbed, lowering the grade of the pitch to 4b.. 3) 5a, 26m. Make some steep moves up left into a groove which leads to a small cave. Move right out of the cave to a tiny ledge and then climb up left to a thin crack with difficulty. Climb the crack and groove above to the top. © ROCKFAX
PITCH 2 CLEANED SEPT 2014 - NO EXCUSES, GET ON IT. Good nut and cam hanging belay at the start of this pitch. It is most pleasant to climb the crack and the wall immediately to its left and head direct to the left side of the pedestal to belay at the top of this pitch.
Frank Cannings, Peter Biven , Mark Springett 06/Apr/1968

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Steve Whitfeild on Goddess of Gloom © www.climbpembroke.com
View all 6 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 26 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Early start to get through the cave on a rising tide, wet slabs and damp holds on high traverse, all a bit gripping! Steve did P1 but traversed right to Moonraker belay as couldn't find much gear for the belay, so missed second pitch. Top pitch is fantastic.
Phil79 - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Steve H

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Aug/14 with Charlotte

P1 only - escaped left onto Moonraker
timreynolds - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with Sarah Welsh, Dave Coley

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Bruce Woodley

Grabtheslab - 2013

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Graham Charman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

Fab route, great positions throughout, steep first pitch but good rests in between steeo sections and big jugs all the way. second pitch very dirty this ealy after the nesting season, but final pitch absolutely brilliant bridging.
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Rory

Backed off first OH - bit of a shock first thing in the morning. Mike nailed it, then we swung leads after that. P2, steep face climbing on small, mucky ledges. Every hold and gear placement needed cleaning. P3 a delight. Definitely felt E1.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Michael

pawel took an absolute whipsticker on the first pitch when he broke a hold off!! i did the 2nd pitch mixing the wall with the vegtated crck as the wall is horrificaly dirty altho there isnt much gear and as the angle eases it gets dirtier! awesome route tho! I climbed with no falls or rests.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with pawel rakowski

1st pitch very nice, but end of it v.loose and weak rock(long fall after hold broke off). 2nd belay should be set up above this section, which makes it hanging and tricky to set up. 2nd pith very dirty slabby wall with poor pro for a while, potential off of long fall is you slip on mud. Last pitch excellent. Expect bird shit. Not worth 2 stars.
raku - Lead dog - 02/Aug/09 with Duncan Campbell

Didn't climb 2nd pitch.Traversed across to the 1st belay of moonraker climbed to the next belay and rejoined Goddess.The 1st pitch was very intimidating,the last pitch was great.All in all another great day.
Popkids - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Kafoozalem

Dan went the wrong way and it cost us the route!
sebrider - Lead dog - 2008 with Dan Walker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Sep/96 with eric milton

ChrisJD - AltLd - 1995 with rc

Hidden - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/85

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1984 with Andy Tallent

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Phil79, chris ebbutt, alexanderjwatts, Ropeboy, JoeMortimer_Trad, twright180

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard E10 of 11
E11 of 11
easy E16 of 11
hard HVS3 of 11
HVS1 of 11
easy HVS0 of 11
hard VS0 of 11
VS0 of 11
easy VS0 of 11
hard 5b0 of 11
5b0 of 11
easy 5b2 of 11
hard 5a1 of 11
5a8 of 11
easy 5a0 of 11
hard 4c0 of 11
4c0 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
3 Stars3 of 11
2 Stars6 of 11
1 Star2 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
dogged