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Goddess of Gloom** HVS 5a

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[Tony high on Goddess of Gloom (HVS 5a), 2 kb]63m. Sustained climbing on a strong line-up the wall left of the Great Cave. Start on a good tidal ledge at the base of a large corner with two overhangs.. 1) 5a, 16m. Climb the corner to below the first overhang and pass it via moves on the right wall. Continue to the overhang at the top of the corner and move right and then up to a small stance.. 2) 5a, 17m. Above is a vegetated crack. Climb the wall left of the crack, then trend rightwards across the top of the crack and climb to a stance on a pedestal (this is also the second stance of Moonraker). If clear of vegetation, the crack itself can be climbed, lowering the grade of the pitch to 4b.. 3) 5a, 26m. Make some steep moves up left into a groove which leads to a small cave. Move right out of the cave to a tiny ledge and then climb up left to a thin crack with difficulty. Climb the crack and groove above to the top. © ROCKFAX
A superb outing currently marred by its dirty and serious pitch 2. Probably worth E1 5a since leaders have to cope with an intimidating start, slightly loose rock above and a hanging stance. Great fun though.
Frank Cannings, Peter Biven , Mark Springett 06/Apr/1968

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Tony high on Goddess of Gloom (HVS 5a) © Kafoozalem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 21 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Grabtheslab - 2013

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Graham Charman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

Fab route, great positions throughout, steep first pitch but good rests in between steeo sections and big jugs all the way. second pitch very dirty this ealy after the nesting season, but final pitch absolutely brilliant bridging.
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Rory

Backed off first OH - bit of a shock first thing in the morning. Mike nailed it, then we swung leads after that. P2, steep face climbing on small, mucky ledges. Every hold and gear placement needed cleaning. P3 a delight. Definitely felt E1.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Michael

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09

1st pitch very nice, but end of it v.loose and weak rock(long fall after hold broke off). 2nd belay should be set up above this section, which makes it hanging and tricky to set up. 2nd pith very dirty slabby wall with poor pro for a while, potential off of long fall is you slip on mud. Last pitch excellent. Expect bird shit. Not worth 2 stars.
raku - Lead dog - 02/Aug/09 with Duncan Campbell

Didn't climb 2nd pitch.Traversed across to the 1st belay of moonraker climbed to the next belay and rejoined Goddess.The 1st pitch was very intimidating,the last pitch was great.All in all another great day.
Popkids - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Pete Saunders

Dan went the wrong way and it cost us the route!
sebrider - Lead dog - 2008 with Dan Walker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Sep/96 with eric milton

ChrisJD - AltLd - 1995 with rc

Hidden - 1993

Pitch 2 took the vegetated crack in those days. It may be unappealing but I suspect far less dangerous in 2008 than the horrendously dirty wall to it's left.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/85 with Chris Pound

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1984 with Andy Tallent

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Hidden, Joe Mortimer, twright180

Voting
Total votes cast 30
hard E10 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E16 of 10
hard HVS3 of 10
HVS1 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard VS0 of 10
VS0 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b2 of 10
hard 5a1 of 10
5a7 of 10
easy 5a0 of 10
hard 4c0 of 10
4c0 of 10
easy 4c0 of 10
3 Stars3 of 10
2 Stars5 of 10
1 Star2 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 21 (28.6%)
Followed1 of 21 (4.8%)
Alt Leads12 of 21 (57.1%)
Unknown2 of 21 (9.5%)

'Climbed'5 of 21 (23.8%)
clean O/S14 of 21 (66.7%)
dogged2 of 21 (9.5%)