Juvs°yla*** WI6
[Paul Millen on the second pitch of the mighty Juvsøyla WI6, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Four or five pitches. The huge pillar which is easily seen from the road above the gorge. Start in a chimney with a small ice wall and continue on snow to a belay. There are two options:
1) Follow very thin ice over slabby rock to gain the bottom of the big pillar. This pitch can be very difficult to protect and sees variable conditions from season to season.
2) Follow the snow chimney to the top and climb mixed ground over to the pillar. Follow the pillar in two pitches (or one long one). Because of the steepness the pillar often has challenging ice conditions.
Descent - If the snow is deep, abseil back to the gorge base. In less snow, continue to the road at the top. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Paul Millen on the second pitch of the mighty Juvsøyla WI6 © centurion05
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

SPD224 - 2nd - 26/Feb/15 with Martin Smith

Charlie Zephyr Booth - AltLd - 12/Feb/15 with tim millen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14

Placements ripping left, right and centre on rotten ice spat us off.
SPD224 - AltLd dnf - 26/Feb/14 with Martin Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/13

tjmillen - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Charlie

Andrew Wilson - AltLd dnf - 21/Feb/13 with cliff shasby

P2. Started too late so abseiled to return later in week.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd - 18/Feb/13 with cliff shasby

Lead pitch 2 and 4. Mixed conditions on pitch 2, perfect ice on last pitches.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/12 with Sam Thompson

Great route, amazing natural hooks, the pillar was steep and sustained but never desperate. The approach pitch was the scariest to lead, teetering up thin and brittle ice with cod gear. Amazing exposure for an ice climb, great fun!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/12 with Ben Warrick

Beautiful but banked out and easy. Approach pitch was the hardest with loose and snow covered rock. Led the whole pillar in one long pitch.
DanielJ - AltLd O/S - Mar/10 with Daniel J.

mic_b - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/10

AdrianP - AltLd β - 12/Feb/10 with Erik

Hidden - AltLd β - 12/Feb/10

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with Juha

Nice rock traverse on a ledge. Steep ice was almost only hooks. Long and great.
juhah - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/10 with Tuukka Holopainen

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/10 with milhouse

alpinestar_no1 - AltLd β - 10/Jan/10

Lead the First pitch over the small ice curtain on far right and traversed over the Rockwall circa 25m to a large flake in middle of wall.Thin ice Fell out of the 3rd pitch because my hooks broke out in ice very thin Ice Not good took a realy big whipper not too be Repeated.
Jamie Degel - Lead - Jan/10 with Klaus Kallesch DaV Hamburg, Timothy Riches

Nicos - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/09 with stuart mcinnes

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - Mar/08 with Neil Mgeachy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/08

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/08 with Mark Mosgrove

MYSSAK - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/08 with Radek Josek

mgeek - AltLd O/S - 2008 with greg boswell

plain kitten - Lead - 2000

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1999 with Fredrik

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
fifth, ClimbingGlen, gavinpeach, iksander, DeanD, alan1234, Andre Clarke, joeydurkin, inuklm, MonkeyDawson, andyinglis, Karl Wooffindin

Total votes cast 17
hard WI6+0 of 8
WI6+0 of 8
easy WI6+0 of 8
hard WI60 of 8
WI64 of 8
easy WI62 of 8
hard WI5+2 of 8
WI5+0 of 8
easy WI5+0 of 8
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β