Rockfax Description
4 or 5 pitches. The huge pillar which is easily seen from the road above the Gorge. Start in a chimney with a small ice wall and continue on snow to a belay. There are two options:
1) Follow very thin ice over slabby rock to gain the bottom of the big pillar. This pitch can be very difficult to protect and sees variable conditions from season to season.
2) Follow the snow chimney to the top and climb mixed ground over to the pillar. Follow the pillar in two pitches (or one long one). Because of the steepness the pillar often has challenging ice conditions.
Descent - If the snow is deep, abseil back to the Gorge base. In less snow, continue to the road at the top. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
alexm198 26/Feb AltLd O/S

Psycheeeee! What an incredibly intimidating route. Glad we got on it though - bottom of the pillar provides amazing 3D cauliflower climbing that is much steeper than it looks from below and P2 provides a ludicrously exposed steep finale. Fun fun fun! The approach pitch was super well-iced but a bit rotten. Did it in 3 proper pitches, led 1 and 3. Rapped from the tree.

Poco Loco 05/Feb 2nd dog

Pumpy climb for me! Very atmospheric feeling. The slabby pitch has some ice on it but a little hollow in places. Did the pillar in two pitches, with a belay on the left in an overhang. The ice was a little brittle in places, I was glad I wasn't on the sharp end. David did a great lead a placed plenty of screws - I had to sit on the rope several times to get them out.

with David M
SPD224 26/Feb/15 2nd
with Martin Smith
Charlie Zephyr Booth 12/Feb/15 AltLd
with tim millen
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
SPD224 26/Feb/14 AltLd dnf

Placements ripping left, right and centre on rotten ice spat us off.

with Martin Smith
Hidden 27/Feb/13 Lead O/S
tjmillen 27/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
Andrew Wilson 21/Feb/13 AltLd dnf
Andrew Wilson 18/Feb/13 AltLd

P2. Started too late so abseiled to return later in week.

BorisVBlade 23/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 4. Mixed conditions on pitch 2, perfect ice on last pitches.

with Sam Thompson
Adam Booth 09/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Great route, amazing natural hooks, the pillar was steep and sustained but never desperate. The approach pitch was the scariest to lead, teetering up thin and brittle ice with cod gear. Amazing exposure for an ice climb, great fun!

DanielJ ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Beautiful but banked out and easy. Approach pitch was the hardest with loose and snow covered rock. Led the whole pillar in one long pitch.

with Daniel J.
mic_b 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
AdrianP 12/Feb/10 AltLd β
with Erik
Hidden 12/Feb/10 AltLd β
tuukka 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Juha
juhah 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Nice rock traverse on a ledge. Steep ice was almost only hooks. Long and great.

centurion05 16/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with milhouse
alpinestar_no1 10/Jan/10 AltLd β
Jamie Degel ?/Jan/10 Lead

Lead the First pitch over the small ice curtain on far right and traversed over the Rockwall circa 25m to a large flake in middle of wall.Thin ice Fell out of the 3rd pitch because my hooks broke out in ice very thin Ice Not good took a realy big whipper not too be Repeated.

with Klaus Kallesch DaV Hamburg, Timothy Riches
Nicos 02/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with stuart mcinnes
Greg Boswell ?/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 25/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
MYSSAK 19/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Radek Josek
mgeek ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with greg boswell
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1999 AltLd O/S

S,2,L,2.

with Fredrik
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Scott Anderson, ClimbingGlen, Hidden, iksander, DeanD, alan1234, Hidden, Andre Clarke, joeydurkin, inuklm, MonkeyDawson, andyinglis, Karl Wooffindin
Voting
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High WI-6
Mid WI-6
Low WI-6
High WI-5+
Mid WI-5+
Low WI-5+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set