Rockfax Description
Three or four pitches. The broad waterfall to the right of Juvsøyla is impossible to miss. Start in the same chimney as Juvsøyla but belay where the ramp formation on Trappfoss branches off to the right. Follow this ramp for a long pitch to a belay. Continue up steep ice to a belay on a ledge. Follow more ledges to the top. Descend either by walking off or abseil from drilled ice anchors. © Rockfax

gavinpeach 05/Mar AltLd O/S

Great route. I led pitch 2. Glen led 1 and 3.

ClimbingGlen 05/Mar AltLd O/S

After a small solo to the belay ledge. Led pitch 1 and 3. 1 felt like a scottish winter grade 2 with lots of Neve. Belay point with piton and tat under a ledge is just passed 60 metres! Was able to come off the belay from one rope and stretch out the second rope. Lower v thread advisable. Gav led 2nd pitch. Good sustained 30 metre pitch with exposed position. 3rd pitch steep at the start and eases off to the top up a snow ramp to some trees. 45 metres. Beautiful position, good views. 4 abseils down to the valley.

Hidden 16/Feb AltLd O/S
partz 10/Feb AltLd O/S

Pumpy as, glad Matt lead the middle pitch. Ice was pretty wet and a bit sketchy at the top. Walked off and hitched back to vermork to retrieve bags - don't do it. Take 2-3 lengths of tat and ab off

matt.woodfield 10/Feb AltLd O/S
mattleepianist ?/Feb AltLd
Mr Spoons 31/Jan AltLd
with Alan Hinkes
Big Lee 24/Jan AltLd O/S

Indifferent ice. A little stepped so felt pretty steady for the grade. A bit thin at the top where the angle eases back.

annak 24/Jan AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 20/Jan Lead G/U

Returned to retrieve gear from yesterday's truncated attempt. Led P1 and P2. P3 was covered deep in powder snow so abseiled off an Abalakov at the end of P2 and down climbed P1 (again).

Pete_Frost 19/Jan AltLd dnf

Led P1. Dave led P2 until his left axe ripped out of rotten ice just short of the belay and he sprained his ankle in the subsequent fall. I down climbed P1 after lowering Dave and helped him on a long, painful hop down the gorge to the car.

alexm198 06/Jan AltLd O/S

In 4 and a bit pitches (ramp pitch was about 70m so had to pitch up to the peg separately). Led the ramp (very thin) and the crux wall after the peg. Gear was suspect but luckily the ice provided good hooks.

Hidden 06/Jan AltLd O/S
ecromwell 06/Jan AltLd O/S

Pink pointed second pitch with gear placed by Alex. Scary as fuck. Most scared i've been on any climb in my life!

with Alison Cromwell
BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
Marti999 26/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Marti999 26/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Matt Barnes 22/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with John V
mileshill540 ??/2014 AltLd
MrRiley 17/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Utterly incredible, what a route! Amazing surroundings and position!

with Richard Hines, Rob Reglinski
Rickrick 17/Feb/13 -
stratandrew 10/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

We followed Phil up P1 of the entry gully to belay at bottom of ramp. Gareth led ramp (WI2). I led P2 normal route up to the right. 35m. Gareth P3 40m. Abbed down on Abalakhovs.

with Dave Bish, Gareth Williams
gw3285 10/Feb/13 AltLd
6aPunter ??/2013 -
marcusmarcus1 07/Mar/12 AltLd dnf
guy757 07/Mar/12 -
al99 07/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Russ Reid
SaraAT 21/Feb/12 2nd dog
with Arnaud Sors
tomwheeler 21/Feb/12 AltLd
BorisVBlade 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
timjones 18/Feb/12 AltLd
with Neil McLean
Hidden 18/Feb/12 -
bengt 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Chuck, Dom
muzz44 ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 17/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch. Brillient. Prob my hardist ice lead yet.

with Martin Chick
williamsd79 10/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Top route, Will lead 1st pitch, I led the 2nd pitch to a slight grove on crusty ice and belayed Will up, Will finished the remainder of the 2nd pitch and the 3rd pitch, I led the last pitch. Top Route especially pitches 2 and 3

with Will Marshall
Cardi 09/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 (main pitch). Great climbing. Very similar to Cascade in the pass in style and difficulty.

with Jack S
Sam Warby ?/Jan/12 -
smudge 14/Feb/11 AltLd
with Rob
aaron7 14/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
robertmichaeladams 12/Feb/11 AltLd
with Tom
tomdude 12/Feb/11 AltLd
with rob
The Bad Cough 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
jon22 05/Feb/11 AltLd
Goose4 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Gwyneth 20/Feb/10 2nd

The best climb of the hols

with Stewart
groovy_nut 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3(last). Horrible deep powder on all the easier angled ledges, over rotten ice. Gear very questionable the entire way. Very bad condition.

with Patrick
Hidden 18/Feb/10 AltLd dog
Hidden 14/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Bex_M 14/Feb/10 2nd dog
with Barra
Pete Nugent 12/Feb/10 AltLd

Followed behind Smiler & Geoff. I led p2 taking a line to the left of the central groove system.

with Chris Vernon
joeydurkin 26/Jan/10 2nd
with John R
John Roe 26/Jan/10 AltLd

Led pitches 2 & 3

with Joey Durkin
alpinestar_no1 10/Jan/10 AltLd β
Hidden ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden 13/Mar/09 Lead
pebbles 13/Mar/09 2nd

wow. felt strenuous, but tremendous. a fantastic end to the week. followed another team up, as a result spent the first ten minutes at the belay ducking falling ice.

with guido
KeithW 11/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Solo up 1st pitch, covered in deep snow. Rob 1st pitch, steep & brittle. Me 2nd, more amenable.

with Lithos
lithos 11/Mar/09 AltLd

P1 snow slope plod, led P2 - great up faint groove to snowed up ledge and poor ice at belay - and much messing about with only 1 screw, drilling anchors. Keith led P3, Easy ab down to right (when looking in) off the main line to trees, then 50m to top of snow slope.

with keithw
Tim Bateman 21/Feb/09 Lead
with George Bird
DanielJ 15/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with daniel, viktor
Hidden ?/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Jan/09 AltLd
Greg Boswell 23/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with ken lacey
Hidden 12/Jan/09 AltLd dnf
CMCM 11/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Joe
GScot38 ?/Jan/09 Lead
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
adw07 22/Mar/08 AltLd dnf

Retreated on first pitch, very rotten ice

MoWalker3 07/Mar/08 -
Hidden 05/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/08 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
jam_rich ?/Mar/08 AltLd
Mike Hall 29/Feb/08 -
with Phil T
Neilm18 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Stuart Kennedy
Hidden 25/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 25/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
s kennedy 25/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with neil mosgrove, michale mcghie
michael83 25/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Kennedy, Neil Mosgrove
Karl Wooffindin 22/Feb/08 AltLd dnf

Had to bail on the second pitch of the route as my partner was being sick. Will complete next season.

with Josh Sykes
Hidden 21/Feb/08 Lead O/S
ShaneHoubart ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
graniterocks ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Cecilie Grønhaug, Johan Lundin
Drapes ?/Feb/08 2nd
with Rosie Goolden
John Roe 24/Jan/08 AltLd

Ken led first and third pitch

with Ken Bibby
centurion05 ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
lithos 09/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

solo 1st picth, tony did crux 2nd, i did 3rd, bombarded with ice and italians on ropes !

with TonyM
Mike Hall 05/Mar/07 2nd
with GGraham
Will Homoky 26/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom Hindson
Andrew Sloan 24/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Steve Grove
Jamie Degel ?/Feb/07 Lead

Very Soft Ice Bailed out on Pitch 3

with Tim Plasberg DaV Hamburg
Hidden ?/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1999 AltLd O/S

L,2,L,2. After tryng Juvsoyla. It was too brttle.

with Björn
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Ally Gillies, groovy_nut
High WI4+
Mid WI4+
Low WI4+
High WI4
Mid WI4
Low WI4
High WI3+
Mid WI3+
Low WI3+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set