Chudleigh Overhang* HVS 5a
[Phoenix on Fire, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The wide roof crack at the entrance to Pixies Hole is a much-tried problem that proves to be a gritstone meets limestone experience! Start in the corner 4m right of the arete.
1) 5a,16m. Climb up the crack and right wall to a ledge beneath the wide roof crack. A committing layback rapidly gains a ledge above the roof and a short traverse left to a stance.
2) 20m. Traverse left to the edge of the buttress and climb up easy rock to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
This has been upgraded to an HVS and downgraded to a 4c on the Javu Website. Personally I dont agree with either change, but would be interested in others thoughts on this.

Cracking 1st pitch, but dont bother with the 2nd.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Phoenix on Fire © Justin T
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This climb is in 126 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

chris ebbutt - 2nd - 30/Sep/15 with Jamiet297

One rest on the first pitch, will be back to do it clean.
Jamiet297 - Lead dog - 30/Sep/15 with Chris Ebbutt

Hidden - 2nd β - 19/Jul/15

P1 only. Then followed Pete up the last two pitches of Farewell to Arms.
Brian H - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Alice, Kafoozalem

LanceSolf - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Tom Webber

LDJ - AltLd - 16/May/15 with Alfie, Lou

Hidden - AltLd β - 19/Jan/15

Ben Russell - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/15 with Jacob Straw

Hidden - 2015

justaddpowder - Lead - 12/Oct/14 with Nathan Robbins

Took fall due to hold falling out so still counting it as onsight. Also finished on Gagool rather then traversing so when off route but finished on harder route so still counting this one.
timorme - TR O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Alex Frosty

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14

Tom D - Lead - 2014

couldn't commit with all the polish on a hot day, pumpy pacing gear
Webster - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/13

steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 03/May/13 with David Coley

Grabtheslab - Mar/13

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 02/Feb/13

Would give HVS 5a. Strenuous move around roof, polished feet, hard to place gear, scary but fun!
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Callum

callum brown - 2nd - 02/Feb/13 with Rich

Nick Biven - 2013

Grabtheslab - 2013

Had a right nightmare trying to get some gear to stick. Ah well. Tired myself out finding and eventually placing a good cam then flailed around the lip!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/12 with Ian M

Ian Miller - 2nd dnf - 05/Dec/12 with Ben Darby

Neil Morbey - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Dave B

First @ second lead fall
martin clarke - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/12 with chris floss_81

second pitch. hard move from under the roof
1651SP - AltLd β - 27/Sep/12 with James Goss

second pitch. hard move from under the roof
1651SP - AltLd β - 27/Sep/12 with James Goss

1st pitch lead
MrWiggles - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Alex Sanders-Page

francois - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Chawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12

TP - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Mr Powly - 2nd - 21/Mar/12 with Ian B

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/12

burto - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with tom powell

dparsons - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Nov/11

twright180 - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

RossT - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Andrew Edwards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Marti

Hidden - 2nd RP - 05/Aug/11

Slight layback to gain the overhang to ledge. Great climb.
tomwheeler - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/11 with Callum Arnold

Stayed dry in rain
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with nick

polish does make it feel much more insecure! large cams very useful
nickdonohue - Lead - Jun/11 with Dave Coley

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/11

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with tom m

Julia belayed and then lowered me down to strip the gear.
Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/10 with Julia Wherrell

Tough to place the gear as the crack is just so wide. Managed to get a bomber hex in after loads of faffing.
francois - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Chris

A knee jam in the overhang works well!
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Francois

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/10

Needs big gear. Did not have big gear...
Jon_Warner - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/10 with Tom

agreed 1st pitch great just so polished!!!!! and second pitch is just a bit pance really, the climbing is ok its just needs a good gardening.
culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10 with hamish

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

Was doing fine with some beta but when I got to the overhang it disapeared, as did I
Dave Cooke - 2nd dnf - 16/Jun/10

Orifice - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/10 with John Frost

Frostie - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/10 with Jason Ellway, Nick Andrews

1st pitch only. Wanted to do it for ages don't know why i didn't bother sooner, wicked. Spunky moves on crux ey!
JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with James Langridge

Nice bit of fun for about 30 seconds. Saw people aiding up it. To many climbers punching above their weight me thinks. ...probably reason why the bottom is like an ice rink. Not a HVS Javu!
langar27 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with jon harvey

Grabtheslab - Lead - 20/May/10 with Mykl white

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10

jmhood - 2010

nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Hartmut Erzgraber

Abbed off after the first pitch, bit slippery...
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Got a big hex in and went for it
petecallaghan - Lead β - 05/Aug/09 with Alex Hartley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09

Placed 3 pieces of gear under the overhang, but only the last big hex was good enough. Ran out steam and ran away
petecallaghan - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/09 with Alex Hartley

5a!? probably. great fun-it's reputation is well earned. for second pitch wondered around a bit and found a nice steep UNPOLISHED but a tiny bit loose bit round to the left of the mid belay
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Jul/09 with badger

Mancunianimport - Lead - Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/09

Took in turns to try and lead - I bottled the crux - Andy led beautifully - need to get a bit more practice in - bit more confidence - maybe some new shoes!!!!
richardadventurecafe - 2nd - 02/Dec/08 with Andy Owen

tom169 - Lead rpt - 23/Nov/08 with Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/08

1st pitch only.
tom169 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Laura

pretty good but only a few hard moves, but reli brought my climbing mojo back!!
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with rob steer

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Adam copper *super*

cem - 2nd - 24/Mar/08 with Chris Smith, Rob Truckle

CrispsSmiths - Lead - 24/Mar/08 with cem

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

Hidden - 2008

RobSteer999 - 2nd rpt - 2008 with Dunky monkey

P1 only abbed off
Justin T - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/07

misterb - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07 with sim and dave

sam coward - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/07 with Andy

climber sim - 2007

OliBoyes - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

COD*OF*ROCK - Lead O/S - 2007 with adam cooper

Abbed off after the first pitch, as the second looked overgrown, mediocre, and little-travelled. First pitch a mind-blower. Yes, it's VS, but barely. You won't get climbing like this at the grade very often.
cmsg - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/06 with Luke Gannarelli

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 26/Feb/06 with Nic Dill

sam coward - Lead dog - 21/Aug/05 with Helen

chris j - Lead - Feb/05

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/04

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jun/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01

Okecroak - AltLd - 17/Jul/00 with M Mercy

petegunn - AltLd - 05/Oct/99 with Matt Wilkes

andy_pemberton - Lead - Feb/97 with Rik Meek

colin milton - 2nd - 03/Aug/95 with eric milton

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/95

Dringo - 1995

pmot - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Roget - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/90 with jim

Hidden - 1990

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/89 with Jon Clifford-Smith

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

ChrisJD - Lead - 22/Nov/87 with DaveC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/87

Hidden - Lead - 1987

unsure on date!!!
Pete Nugent - Lead - 1986 with Steve Stean

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/85

mark-abz - 2nd - Jun/81

Mike C - AltLd - 19/May/80

Steve Bell - 1979

Simon cook - 1978

Simon cook - 1974

Hidden - 2nd - 1971

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mreynolds, frostage, Lee_Meaden, Jamiet297, callum brown, mustdobetter, jonnyridleylogan, Dave Cooke, rh5980

Total votes cast 88
hard E10 of 34
E10 of 34
easy E10 of 34
hard HVS0 of 34
HVS3 of 34
easy HVS12 of 34
hard VS11 of 34
VS8 of 34
easy VS0 of 34
hard 5b0 of 32
5b0 of 32
easy 5b1 of 32
hard 5a4 of 32
5a23 of 32
easy 5a0 of 32
hard 4c4 of 32
4c0 of 32
easy 4c0 of 32
3 Stars3 of 22
2 Stars12 of 22
1 Star7 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP