Devon > Chudleigh Rocks >
 
Chudleigh Overhang** VS 5a

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[Phoenix on Fire, 3 kb]This has been upgraded to an HVS and downgraded to a 4c on the Javu Website. Personally I dont agree with either change, but would be interested in others thoughts on this. Cracking 1st pitch, but dont bother with the 2nd.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Phoenix on Fire © quadmyre
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 03/May/13 with David Coley

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 02/Feb/13

Would give HVS 5a. Strenuous move around roof, polished feet, hard to place gear, scary but fun!
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Callum

callum brown - 2nd - 02/Feb/13 with Rich

Hidden - 2013

Had a right nightmare trying to get some gear to stick. Ah well. Tired myself out finding and eventually placing a good cam then flailed around the lip!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/12 with Ian M

ianmiller999 - 2nd dnf - 05/Dec/12 with Ben Darby

Neil Morbey - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/12 with Dave B

First @ second lead fall
martin clarke - Lead dnf - 13/Oct/12 with chris floss_81

second pitch. hard move from under the roof
1651SP - AltLd β - 27/Sep/12 with James Goss

second pitch. hard move from under the roof
1651SP - AltLd β - 27/Sep/12 with James Goss

1st pitch lead
MrWiggles - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12 with Alex Sanders-Page

francois - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/12 with Chawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12

TP - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

Mr Powly - 2nd - 21/Mar/12 with Ian B

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Mar/12

burto - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with tom powell

dparsons - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Nov/11

twright180 - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

RossT - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Andrew Edwards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Marti

CallumArnold - 2nd RP - 05/Aug/11 with Tom Wheeler

Slight layback to gain the overhang to ledge. Great climb.
tomwheeler - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/11 with Callum Arnold

Stayed dry in rain
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with nick

floss_81 - Lead - 29/Mar/11 with john frost

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with tom m

Julia belayed and then lowered me down to strip the gear.
Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/10 with Julia Wherrell

Tough to place the gear as the crack is just so wide. Managed to get a bomber hex in after loads of faffing.
francois - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Chris

A knee jam in the overhang works well!
BelayBunney - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Francois

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/10

Needs big gear. Did not have big gear...
Jon_Warner - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/10 with Tom

agreed 1st pitch great just so polished!!!!! and second pitch is just a bit pance really, the climbing is ok its just needs a good gardening.
culmclimberRob - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10 with hamish

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10

Was doing fine with some beta but when I got to the overhang it disapeared, as did I
Dave Cooke - 2nd dnf - 16/Jun/10

Orifice - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/10 with John Frost

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/10

1st pitch only. Wanted to do it for ages don't know why i didn't bother sooner, wicked. Spunky moves on crux ey!
JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with James Langridge

Nice bit of fun for about 30 seconds. Saw people aiding up it. To many climbers punching above their weight me thinks. ...probably reason why the bottom is like an ice rink. Not a HVS Javu!
langar27 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/10 with jon harvey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10

jmhood - 2010

nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Hartmut Erzgraber

Abbed off after the first pitch, bit slippery...
porridgefan - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with Niall Francis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/09

Got a big hex in and went for it
petecallaghan - Lead β - 05/Aug/09 with Alex Hartley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09

Placed 3 pieces of gear under the overhang, but only the last big hex was good enough. Ran out steam and ran away
petecallaghan - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/09 with Alex Hartley

5a!? probably. great fun-it's reputation is well earned. for second pitch wondered around a bit and found a nice steep UNPOLISHED but a tiny bit loose bit round to the left of the mid belay
w.pettet-smith - Lead - Jul/09 with badger

Mancunianimport - Lead - Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/09

Took in turns to try and lead - I bottled the crux - Andy led beautifully - need to get a bit more practice in - bit more confidence - maybe some new shoes!!!!
richardadventurecafe - 2nd - 02/Dec/08 with Andy Owen

tom169 - Lead rpt - 23/Nov/08 with Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/08

1st pitch only.
tom169 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Laura

pretty good but only a few hard moves, but reli brought my climbing mojo back!!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with rob steer

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08 with Adam copper *super*

cem - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/08 with Chris Smith, Rob Truckle

dewrats - Lead O/S - 2008 with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr

Hidden - 2008

RobSteer999 - 2nd rpt - 2008 with Dunky monkey

P1 only abbed off
quadmyre - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/07

misterb - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/07 with sim and dave

sam coward - 2nd rpt - 31/Mar/07 with Andy

climber sim - 2007

biffyat8 - 2007 with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2007

COD*OF*ROCK - Lead O/S - 2007 with adam cooper

Abbed off after the first pitch, as the second looked overgrown, mediocre, and little-travelled. First pitch a mind-blower. Yes, it's VS, but barely. You won't get climbing like this at the grade very often.
cmsg - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/06 with Luke Gannarelli

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 26/Feb/06 with Nic Dill

sam coward - Lead dog - 21/Aug/05 with Helen

chris j - Lead - Feb/05

andybrown114 - 2nd - 10/Jun/04 with James Raitt

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jun/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01

Okecroak - AltLd - 17/Jul/00 with M Mercy

petegunn - AltLd - 05/Oct/99 with Matt Wilkes

andy_pemberton - Lead - Feb/97 with Rik Meek

colin milton - 2nd - 03/Aug/95 with eric milton

leadmat - Lead - Jul/95

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/95

Dringo - 1995

pmot - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Roget - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/90 with jim

Hidden - 1990

Mickdenali - Lead - 1990

davidalcock - 1988 with Philip Scorer

ChrisJD - Lead - 22/Nov/87 with DaveC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/87

unsure on date!!!
Pete Nugent - Lead - 1986 with Steve Stean

Has always been HVS 5a IMO. Make sure your gear doesn't tug out as you commit to the crux.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/85 with Wendy Goodyer

mark-abz - 2nd - Jun/81

Mike C - AltLd - 19/May/80

Hidden - 1979

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 1971

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mustdobetter, jonnyridleylogan, Hidden, Dave Cooke, SCGale, rh5980

Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard HVS0 of 27
HVS0 of 27
easy HVS10 of 27
hard VS10 of 27
VS7 of 27
easy VS0 of 27
hard HS0 of 27
HS0 of 27
easy HS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 26
5b0 of 26
easy 5b1 of 26
hard 5a4 of 26
5a17 of 26
easy 5a0 of 26
hard 4c4 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c0 of 26
3 Stars3 of 20
2 Stars11 of 20
1 Star6 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead59 of 103 (57.3%)
Followed25 of 103 (24.3%)
Alt Leads9 of 103 (8.7%)
Unknown10 of 103 (9.7%)

'Climbed'38 of 103 (36.9%)
clean O/S44 of 103 (42.7%)
clean β3 of 103 (2.9%)
clean rpt9 of 103 (8.7%)
clean RP1 of 103 (1.0%)
dogged2 of 103 (1.9%)
dnf6 of 103 (5.8%)