UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

12m. A link up, somewhat in the mould of Shin Gi Tai (3), which allows one to arrive at the upper part of the steep wall in rather fresher condition! Start up Gallions Reach and clip the first two bolts (long extender on the first bolt). Leaving that route, reach up left for a mega-jug, swing left on this, clip the bolt further up left, and so join the upper half of Woke Up Dreamin'.

B Mullan, G Clarke 14/May/2016.

Feedback

User Date Notes
springfall2008 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Worth clipping the 3rd bolt of Gallions reach, you can always unclip once you get the next clip from the mega jug.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth clipping the 3rd bolt of Gallions reach, you can always unclip once you get the next clip from the mega jug.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High 6b
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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
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High 6a
Mid 6a
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