Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
One of the finest E4s in North Wales, but its remote location means not many people know this. The first pitch is slabby and serious, the second well protected and exposed. Start by abseiling in - a 60m rope only just reaches the ground.
1) 5c, 20m. Start at some blocks at the back of a corner-groove. Pull up left past a bolt to reach a cam placement. Move leftwards to another bolt and make a committing move left to gain the arete. Head up to the bolt belay.
2) 6a, 20m. Make a hard pull right through the bulge. An awkward move left after the second bolt reaches the third. Head up past a side-pull and a few more bolts to an exposed groove. Belay just above this on a mossy slab.
3) 4b, 10m. Try not to slip as you edge across to your abseil rope, which will aid progress up the mossy exit. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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The Knight of Noble Consciousness
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn Yr Adar)