UKC

20m. A steep, white wall just right of the archway has a sunny aspect and interesting climbing, the rock however, begins steep and barnacle covered, is momentarily good if a little scaley, then deteriorates after the crux becoming dubious until finished.
The belay ledge can be gained by a few boulder hops at low tide, any other time is not worth it.
Gain and climb the steep, pockety crack that leads directly up the white wall right of the archway, passing plenty of gear options and two natural threads. At the top of the crack, moves lead naturally up and left to the roof and undercut crack. From here traverse right past a peg to gain the obvious ramp (crux), climb the ramp passing 3 more pegs to the top. A stake and turf thread can be found nearby, and plenty of boulders up the path to the right can be helpful for the belay.

Big G.

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User Date Notes
Dave Rudkin 2 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced the two threads with new cord. 1st, 3rd, and 4th pegs are originals from the first ascent I imagine, they are very corroded. The 2nd peg is possibly an original but stainless steel so has withstood the corrosion. It’s possible to back-up the 1st and 4th pegs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced the two threads with new cord. 1st, 3rd, and 4th pegs are originals from the first ascent I imagine, they are very corroded. The 2nd peg is possibly an original but stainless steel so has withstood the corrosion. It’s possible to back-up the 1st and 4th pegs.

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Route of Interest
The Band of Westies

Grade: E5 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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