Gwynedd > Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant) >
 
Phoenix*** E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Oriole
 
Screech Owl >>
Top end of the grade. Climb the capped groove in the LH arete of the main wall (hard to start). At the overlap, traverse R and move up round the arete to gain another groove(Clonus LH). Either continue directly up to join the finish of Oriole or, after a few moves, go R to another groove and gain a ledge awkwardly. (Belay to avoid drag). Continue up the groove to the top.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 45 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

P2 after Alex had to show me how to do the start of P1. Still tough on 2nd!
Ed Babs - AltLd β - 01/Jul/14 with AlexD

Tough-going up to the roof, being simultaneously not warmed-up and completely wasted from previous days adventure! Absolutely bomber gear though. Wild moves beneath the roof, and up the arete (used my chin to hold myself in for one move!) Intended to belay on arete after traverse as suggested in guidebook, but wasn't too confident in the stability of the blocks. Loved the little ledge belay though, 5 star view!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Ed

p2
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with gwen

Frank the Husky - 2014

Amazing climb, one of the best E2's I've climbed - cool moves in incredible positions.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

In one pitch. Such continually interesting climbing and stunning positions!
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Darren McMaster

miastacey - Lead - 25/May/13 with Heather Clarke

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
PeteHarrisonmustbebanned - AltLd O/S - May/13

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
peteharrison06 - AltLd O/S - May/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Will Oates

lead the 2nd pitch, 1st pitch is hard.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Glyn

khawk - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with DT

Superb route which we climbed in one pitch with careful rope work. However it is probably better as two pitches, belaying soon after the traverse as mention on another comment as it reduces likley rope drag also it reduces rope stretch for the second on the tricky start and improves communication. Finally it improves the second pitch.
Steve Crowe - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with KM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hmm, another yr Eryr route with a query over the grade. Easier than Astoroth but more physical which suits me. Hard to get established / place gear at the bottom of the crack but things get easier the higher you get. Perfect gear all the way. The traverse looks hard before you do it but is fine. Another E3 6a from P Williams and E2 5c from NWR; I'm dead against grade creep but E3 5c seems OK for this. By the way, very good climbing; belayed on blocks on arete after traverse, this makes 2nd pitch much more worthwhile / route more balanced.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with jo

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Marti

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/May/10 with john nuttal

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10

soph - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09

Battered from the previous day. Struggled up this and then went home...
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 25/May/09 with Bob Smith

Brown - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Henry

mux - 08/Jun/08 with Simon Frost

frost - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with D Garry

1st pitch
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - Jun/08 with Dave Almond

spidey - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/05

Phil did pitch 1 and I did pitch 2. Had participated in the first (aided)ascent of some of pitch 1 in 1960's before the whole thing was completed by Jack Ball and Marshal Reeve. At least one photo of this.
David Smith - AltLd - 07/Aug/04 with Phil Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/04

Gus - Lead O/S - 13/May/04

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/01

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/97 with jon

1 pt of aid
michael burrows - Lead dog - 28/Apr/96 with steve ward

michael burrows - 2nd - 07/May/95 with richard parry

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Aug/92 with Alison Dorey

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/90

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/87

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/85 with Dave Booth

Hidden - AltLd - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/83

Mike Owen - 16/Jun/83 with Steve Foxley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Alex.M-M., Chris M, Hidden, Hidden, nigel pearson, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E30 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E39 of 16
hard E27 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard 6a0 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
hard 5c9 of 15
5c6 of 15
easy 5c0 of 15
hard 5b0 of 15
5b0 of 15
easy 5b0 of 15
3 Stars12 of 13
2 Stars1 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead17 of 45 (37.8%)
Followed7 of 45 (15.6%)
Alt Leads15 of 45 (33.3%)
Unknown6 of 45 (13.3%)

'Climbed'18 of 45 (40.0%)
clean O/S24 of 45 (53.3%)
clean β1 of 45 (2.2%)
dogged2 of 45 (4.4%)