Phoenix*** E2 5c

Rockfax Description
A great line up the left-hand side of the crag which follows the steep grooves. Start below a right-facing groove with a capping roof, as for Oriole.
1) 5c, 30m. Start with difficulty up the corner and continue until just before the roof. Pull around to the right and move up to a small ledge and a spike belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb up to a small roof and move left around this. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Top end of the grade. Climb the capped groove in the LH arete of the main wall (hard to start). At the overlap, traverse R and move up round the arete to gain another groove(Clonus LH). Either continue directly up to join the finish of Oriole or, after a few moves, go R to another groove and gain a ledge awkwardly. (Belay to avoid drag). Continue up the groove to the top.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

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This climb is in 54 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

dswansonlow - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/15 with James Docherty

Done in one pitch, tough
Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/15 with dave pickford

Led first (crux) pitch. Excellent route. Heard talk of it being E3 but felt solid E2.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Will Harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15

Great route. Tough p1 led p2. Prob e2 as there was loads of gear and bridge rests.
breed - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/15

Lead pitch 1 to the good hanging belay on the arÍte where you can watch your second grapple with the hard groove. Felt well worth E3 to me by Welsh standards. A tough warm up, in fact so tough we left straight after!
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with rachel slater

Lead the second pitch from the arete belay. Really good climbing but a total sand-bag at E2!
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

P2 after Alex had to show me how to do the start of P1. Still tough on 2nd!
Ed Babs - AltLd β - 01/Jul/14 with AlexD

Tough-going up to the roof, being simultaneously not warmed-up and completely wasted from previous days adventure! Absolutely bomber gear though. Wild moves beneath the roof, and up the arete (used my chin to hold myself in for one move!) Intended to belay on arete after traverse as suggested in guidebook, but wasn't too confident in the stability of the blocks. Loved the little ledge belay though, 5 star view!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/14 with Ed

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with gwen

Frank the Husky - 2014

Amazing climb, one of the best E2's I've climbed - cool moves in incredible positions.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

In one pitch. Such continually interesting climbing and stunning positions!
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Darren McMaster

miastacey - Lead - 25/May/13 with Heather Clarke

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
PeteHarrisonmustbebanned - AltLd O/S - May/13

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch
peteharrison06 - AltLd O/S - May/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Will Oates

lead the 2nd pitch, 1st pitch is hard.
willoates - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Glyn

khawk - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with DT

Superb route which we climbed in one pitch with careful rope work. However it is probably better as two pitches, belaying soon after the traverse as mention on another comment as it reduces likley rope drag also it reduces rope stretch for the second on the tricky start and improves communication. Finally it improves the second pitch.
Steve Crowe - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with KM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11

Hmm, another yr Eryr route with a query over the grade. Easier than Astoroth but more physical which suits me. Hard to get established / place gear at the bottom of the crack but things get easier the higher you get. Perfect gear all the way. The traverse looks hard before you do it but is fine. Another E3 6a from P Williams and E2 5c from NWR; I'm dead against grade creep but E3 5c seems OK for this. By the way, very good climbing; belayed on blocks on arete after traverse, this makes 2nd pitch much more worthwhile / route more balanced.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/11 with jo

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Marti

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/May/10 with john nuttal

Nice Route, did first pitch
Adam Ellwood - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Dave Evans

soph - 01/Jan/10

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Ewan

Battered from the previous day. Struggled up this and then went home...
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd - 25/May/09 with Bob Smith

Brown - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Henry

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/08

mux - 08/Jun/08 with Simon Frost

frost - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with D Garry

1st pitch
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - Jun/08 with Dave Almond

spidey - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/05

Phil did pitch 1 and I did pitch 2. Had participated in the first (aided)ascent of some of pitch 1 in 1960's before the whole thing was completed by Jack Ball and Marshal Reeve. At least one photo of this.
uphillnow - AltLd - 07/Aug/04 with Phil Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/04

Gus - Lead O/S - 13/May/04

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/01

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/97 with jon

1 pt of aid
michael burrows - Lead dog - 28/Apr/96 with steve ward

michael burrows - 2nd - 07/May/95 with richard parry

Not sure of date
D Tempest - Lead - 15/Aug/93 with Rick

Mark Kemball - Lead - 14/Aug/92 with Alison Dorey

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/90

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/87

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/85 with Dave Booth

Hidden - AltLd - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/83

Mike Owen - 16/Jun/83 with Steve Foxley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Owen W-G, Alex.M-M., Chris M, nigel pearson

Total votes cast 53
hard E30 of 19
E33 of 19
easy E39 of 19
hard E27 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard 6a0 of 18
6a1 of 18
easy 6a2 of 18
hard 5c9 of 18
5c6 of 18
easy 5c0 of 18
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
3 Stars15 of 16
2 Stars1 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat