Top end of the grade. Climb the capped groove in the LH arete of the main wall (hard to start). At the overlap, traverse R and move up round the arete to gain another groove(Clonus LH). Either continue directly up to join the finish of Oriole or, after a few moves, go R to another groove and gain a ledge awkwardly. (Belay to avoid drag). Continue up the groove to the top.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

dswansonlow 03/Oct 2nd rpt
with James Docherty
Ramon Marin 03/Oct Lead O/S

Done in one pitch, tough

with dave pickford
tatz45 19/Jul AltLd O/S

Led first (crux) pitch. Excellent route. Heard talk of it being E3 but felt solid E2.

with Will Harris
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
breed 22/Mar AltLd O/S

Great route. Tough p1 led p2. Prob e2 as there was loads of gear and bridge rests.

tim newton 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 to the good hanging belay on the arÍte where you can watch your second grapple with the hard groove. Felt well worth E3 to me by Welsh standards. A tough warm up, in fact so tough we left straight after!

Rachel Slater 08/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch from the arete belay. Really good climbing but a total sand-bag at E2!

Ed Babs 01/Jul/14 AltLd β

P2 after Alex had to show me how to do the start of P1. Still tough on 2nd!

with AlexD
AlexD 01/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Tough-going up to the roof, being simultaneously not warmed-up and completely wasted from previous days adventure! Absolutely bomber gear though. Wild moves beneath the roof, and up the arete (used my chin to hold myself in for one move!) Intended to belay on arete after traverse as suggested in guidebook, but wasn't too confident in the stability of the blocks. Loved the little ledge belay though, 5 star view!

with Ed
Ewan Russell 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S


with gwen
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
shed_hed 25/May/13 2nd O/S

Amazing climb, one of the best E2's I've climbed - cool moves in incredible positions.

dswansonlow 25/May/13 Lead O/S

In one pitch. Such continually interesting climbing and stunning positions!

miastacey 25/May/13 Lead
with Heather Clarke
PeteHarrisonmustbebanned ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch

peteharrison06 ?/May/13 AltLd O/S

Some big loose stuff on the top pitch

Hidden 24/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Glyn 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Will Oates
willoates 30/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

lead the 2nd pitch, 1st pitch is hard.

with Glyn
khawk 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with DT
Steve Crowe 22/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Superb route which we climbed in one pitch with careful rope work. However it is probably better as two pitches, belaying soon after the traverse as mention on another comment as it reduces likley rope drag also it reduces rope stretch for the second on the tricky start and improves communication. Finally it improves the second pitch.

with KM
Hidden 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
ksjs 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Hmm, another yr Eryr route with a query over the grade. Easier than Astoroth but more physical which suits me. Hard to get established / place gear at the bottom of the crack but things get easier the higher you get. Perfect gear all the way. The traverse looks hard before you do it but is fine. Another E3 6a from P Williams and E2 5c from NWR; I'm dead against grade creep but E3 5c seems OK for this. By the way, very good climbing; belayed on blocks on arete after traverse, this makes 2nd pitch much more worthwhile / route more balanced.

with jo
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Marti999 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
dan gibson 27/May/10 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Adam Ellwood 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Nice Route, did first pitch

with Dave Evans
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Rich Kirby 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Ewan
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 25/May/09 2nd

Battered from the previous day. Struggled up this and then went home...

with Bob Smith
Brown 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Henry
Hidden 27/Aug/08 2nd dog
Rory Shaw 27/Aug/08 Lead
mux 08/Jun/08 -
frost 08/Jun/08 Lead
with D Garry
NeilGriffiths ?/Jun/08 AltLd

1st pitch

with Dave Almond
spidey 09/Jul/05 Lead O/S
uphillnow 07/Aug/04 AltLd

Phil did pitch 1 and I did pitch 2. Had participated in the first (aided)ascent of some of pitch 1 in 1960's before the whole thing was completed by Jack Ball and Marshal Reeve. At least one photo of this.

with Phil Gibson
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead O/S
Gus 13/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/01 AltLd
Roget 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with jon
michael burrows 28/Apr/96 Lead dog

1 pt of aid

with steve ward
michael burrows 07/May/95 2nd
with richard parry
D Tempest 15/Aug/93 Lead

Not sure of date

with Rick
Mark Kemball 14/Aug/92 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 12/Aug/90 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/87 2nd
charlesmfrench 26/Oct/85 AltLd O/S
with Dave Booth
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/83 Lead
Mike Owen 16/Jun/83 -
with Steve Foxley
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Kipper-Phil Smith, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden, Alex.M-M., Chris M, Hidden, Hidden, nigel pearson, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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