UKC

Rockfax Description
III, 12km, 1 day. This is a huge amount of terrain and, whilst some of it is exposed, none of it is technical. Occasionally you will need to drop off either side of the ridge crest but generally just keep on going. There may be more or less rock scrambling depending on snow cover but you should be on snow most of the way so good cramponing conditions will make a huge difference to your speed and enjoyment.
1) Climb the steepening glacial slopes leading southeast towards the Tête Blanche. 150m below the summit, cross a small bergschrund and then climb the 45 degree snow slope to reach the top. The peak is also referred to as the Aiguille Nord de Tré la Tête on some maps and websites.
2) Follow the ridge southeast to the top of a small couloir. Descend this for 50m (40 degrees) then traverse right across a snow slope for 100m, above a small bergschrund, to pass under the Northwest Summit of the Aiguille de Tré la Tête. Instead of climbing this, descend straight down and pass over its southwest ridge to reach the Lée Blanche Glacier.
3) Go south down the glacier then head west and cut directly up to the col at 3569m, which is accessed via a bergshrund crossing and a short snow slope.
4) Follow the ridge crest south over the Aiguille de la Lée Blanche (referred to as the Lex Blanche in some places) and the Dôme de Neige (sometimes referred to as the Dômes des Glaciers).
4a) 3c. The Aiguilles des Glaciers looks (on this photo) as if it is on this ridge-line but it is actually 200m east of the Dôme de Niege. If time/enthusiasm/conditions allow, it's possible to bag this peak by climbing a 45 degree snow couloir on its west ridge and then an airy rock ridge (3c). The couloir has abseil anchors for the way back.
5) Drop down to the Col des Glaciers and then back onto the glacier below. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This long and remote traverse sees relatively few ascents but if you make the effort to get to it, you will find solitude, staggering views and mile after mile of moderate alpine terrain. Virtually none of the route is technical but there are several exposed snow sections and a lot of ground to cover so you will need to be confident, fit and efficient to tick this. For the mid-grade alpinist, this is about as 'out-there' and adventurous as the Mont Blanc Massif gets. One interesting feature of the route is that, from the first summit to the final col, the route follows the French/Italian border every inch of the way.

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Route of Interest
Face Nord Centrale

Grade: AD+ ***
(Grande Casse)

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