The Savage* E2 5b
[The Savage, 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
A challenging route, but it is hard to protect on both pitches and requires a steady head. Start by the base of the abseil.
1) 5b, 35m. Traverse up and left into the corner, passing a large pinnacle at its base. Climb the corner, mainly using the wall on the right, until you reach the arching roof. Traverse right out of this to reach the hanging slab and difficult-to-arrange belay above.
2) 5b, 20m. Step right from the belay and climb a groove before you step back left above and head up to another ramp-line. Move right along this to where you can pull through a steep bulge and reach the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: The Savage © Dave Rumney
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 108 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Squeezed this in after the Moon. Led P1 and P3. P1 is a decent VS. Good belay ledge, which was in the shade - just as well as I was taking the softshell back up, should have left it at the top! P2 tricky bridging and a hard move right at the top, I'd say 5b. P3 interesting line and some interesting moves with a crux 5b section on angular rock where all the holds faced the wrong way! Took the direct finish, which featured a couple of 5b moves. Overall I'd say average E1 and certainly easier than the top pitch of the Moon. Couple of bold moves at the start, then decent gear. Topped out just before the sun dipped into the sea at 6.30pm.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/15 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/14

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 13/Jul/14 with David

P1+2
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with AlexD

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Ed

Led p1&2
Alison Cairns - AltLd - 28/Jun/14 with Mick green

lead 1st n last pitch
Alistair Corbett - AltLd O/S - 14/May/14 with penny

Led crux pitch.
Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Henry

2nd pitch. Gwen did crack finish
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with gwen

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/14

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

mike mo - 2014

I led first pitch
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Wilki

Steady for the grade.
Gezzer - AltLd - 21/Aug/13 with Steve Burns

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/13

Direct Finish, more like E2 5c
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Ian

F5+, E2.
ian caton - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Abi

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/May/13

guy757 - 30/Apr/13

Done as one big pitch. E2,5b and not easy, though not sustained. The 5a pitch is worth 5b. A short crux on both pitches.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with owain llewelyn

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd rpt - 07/Apr/13 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Phil .N

Savage climb, definitely E2, bouldery moves up blocky holds. Direct finish requires pure strength and a layback. There are big jugs at the top.. honest!
Chris Perry - AltLd - 04/Jun/12 with Matt Rust

Kit lead the first pitch/scramble. I lead P2 and P3 in one awesome pitch, with the direct finish. I'd say the route is more like E2/3 and definite 5b/c. P2 is hard leaving the groove and gaining the slab, probably 5b and quite runout. P3, 5b at least, maybe soft 5c. Felt loads harder than Kalahari anyway. Memorable route! Beware the gravel. E2 5b ***
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Kit Perry

gforce - Lead - 15/May/12 with Adrian

Lead all 3 pitches. 2nd is tricky, but a big camalot 4(?) would make it seem safer and less pumpy. Top pitch is a lovely, funky E1 5b pitch. Not bold or sustained enough to warrant E2 IMO. Great little route though!
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Andy Vet

Andrew Sloan - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Duncan

E2
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12 with John Brannock

Led pitch 3 after Martin ran 1 and 2 together. Really good route, sustained interesting climbing, more like E2?
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12

P1 & 2 strung together
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12 with Fingers

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/11

Drew M - AltLd - 21/Sep/11 with Ed Feldman

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/11 with John Orr

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Jez Hawksworth

Liam FLeming - AltLd - 27/Aug/11

With nicole age 14yrs
mux - Lead rpt - 21/Aug/11 with nicole almond

absailed down in near artic conditions then the sun came out just as we started climbing... RED HOT! nice climb, a bit loose at first but the second pitch was good :)
Nicole Almond - 2nd dog - 21/Aug/11 with dave gary

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/11

simon1965 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11 with paul

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 10/Jun/11 with Gareth E

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 31/May/11 with Susan

Led P2. Really good fun, my first experience of Yellow Walls. P2 is a delight on some cool features. Top pitch, also good (finished up crack), didn't have loads of gear. I thought belay on P2 was well left of that described / shown in NW Rock.
ksjs - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with rob

Rob Pitt - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Keith Scarlett

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

A tricky middle pitch and a serious top pitch, definitely E2
david morse - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/10 with chris todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/10

superb, direct finish is cool
phil64 - AltLd - 30/Aug/10

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 11/Jul/10 with Dad

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/May/10

liam 22 - AltLd O/S - May/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Apr/10

Mikey ledfirst i led on his gear. all one pitch. a good day getting my head back.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/10 with Mikey G

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Sam Underhill

Carly - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Richard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09

Dave Rumney - AltLd - 16/Aug/09 with Jim Jones

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Andy Reeve

Lead pitch 1+2 together, Ste lead pitch 3. All the holds on pitch 2 were covered in dusty sepege stuff. Seemed harder than Creeping Lemma.
Glyn Davidson - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Ste Davies

Lead first two pitches. 2nd pitch i found quite hard on less than perfect gear.
gdb4060 - AltLd - 19/Apr/09 with Mike

led top pitch
mike lawrence? - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Giles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/May/08

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/08 with chris thorne

Did 5c fininsh
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Dave Garry, Dom Stockton

Dom Whillans - AltLd - Feb/08 with dave garry, ad crook

Will1 - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 29/Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/07

So good I have done it twice. a great addition to any day on yellow wall, warm up or cool down.
mux - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths

andi turner - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/06 with nick cotton

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 25/Aug/05

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 14/May/05 with Dave Garry

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/96

Hard for the grade - E2 5b ?
Ched - Lead O/S - 1995 with Glanfor

Got bored waiting for Guy and soloed up while he was finding a belay...the impatience of youth!
Tony Little - Solo β - 07/Nov/92 with Guy Maddox

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/92

Hidden - Lead - May/90

Hidden - 2nd β - 01/May/88

mikej - AltLd - 15/Sep/82 with Mike Byles

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Jul/80 with Steve Finch

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/79

Hated it but i wasn't used to the South Stack experience!
Ian Jones - 2nd - 1979 with Mark 'Chin' Whatsisname

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1979 with Will Walker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, madeleine

Voting
Total votes cast 117
hard E30 of 42
E30 of 42
easy E30 of 42
hard E20 of 42
E22 of 42
easy E229 of 42
hard E13 of 42
E18 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard 5c0 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c0 of 40
hard 5b0 of 40
5b3 of 40
easy 5b32 of 40
hard 5a2 of 40
5a3 of 40
easy 5a0 of 40
3 Stars3 of 35
2 Stars23 of 35
1 Star8 of 35
0 Stars1 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
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