Rockfax Description
A challenging route, but it is hard to protect on both pitches and requires a steady head. Start by the base of the abseil.
1) 5b, 35m. Traverse up and left into the corner, passing a large pinnacle at its base. Climb the corner, mainly using the wall on the right, until you reach the arching roof. Traverse right out of this to reach the hanging slab and difficult-to-arrange belay above.
2) 5b, 20m. Step right from the belay and climb a groove before you step back left above and head up to another ramp-line. Move right along this to where you can pull through a steep bulge and reach the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Sardien 02/Oct AltLd O/S

Firs route on yellow wall, led P1&2, found it a bit hard because most gear is not as bommer that you would not like to put just one extra piece in, so i ended up taking a lot of time trying to fit more gear, but never too pumpy and good moves.

al99 30/Sep Lead O/S
with Luke Thomas
Steve Crowe 06/Sep AltLd O/S
with KM
Hidden 18/Aug 2nd O/S
MFB 14/Jun 2nd
with MB
Dan Vaj 13/Jun 2nd O/S
with James Machaffie
Hannes B 13/May Lead O/S

p1&2 in 1

with Andreas, Aidan
jamestaylor92 07/May AltLd O/S
with ian craigie
wi11 20/Apr AltLd O/S

P2 then followed Oli up a rising traverse right of Creeping Lema. Last pitch was bit tricky and not very well protected.

with Oli G
Rachel Slater 18/Apr AltLd O/S
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 18/Apr AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 06/Apr Lead
with Gareth E
Misha 21/Mar AltLd O/S

Squeezed this in after the Moon. Led P1 and P3. P1 is a decent VS. Good belay ledge, which was in the shade - just as well as I was taking the softshell back up, should have left it at the top! P2 tricky bridging and a hard move right at the top, I'd say 5b. P3 interesting line and some interesting moves with a crux 5b section on angular rock where all the holds faced the wrong way! Took the direct finish, which featured a couple of 5b moves. Overall I'd say average E1 and certainly easier than the top pitch of the Moon. Couple of bold moves at the start, then decent gear. Topped out just before the sun dipped into the sea at 6.30pm.

with Andrew
Andrew Wilson 21/Mar AltLd O/S
with Misha
Ian craigie ??/2015 AltLd
with James Taylor
Hidden 26/Sep/14 2nd
Matthew Robinson 13/Jul/14 AltLd
with David
Ed Babs 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with AlexD
AlexD 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Alison Cairns 28/Jun/14 AltLd

Led p1&2

with Mick green
Alistair Corbett 14/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead 1st n last pitch

with penny
Ed morris 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

with Henry
Ewan Russell 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Gwen did crack finish

with gwen
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Simon Allcock 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch

with Wilki
Gezzer 21/Aug/13 AltLd

Steady for the grade.

Hidden 21/Aug/13 AltLd
Joughton 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Direct Finish, more like E2 5c

Abi Chard 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Ian
ian caton 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

F5+, E2.

with Abi
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd rpt
guy757 30/Apr/13 -
tim newton 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Done as one big pitch. E2,5b and not easy, though not sustained. The 5a pitch is worth 5b. A short crux on both pitches.

Owain Llewelyn 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Tim
Hidden 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Lenny 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd
rustaldo 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Kit lead the first pitch/scramble. I lead P2 and P3 in one awesome pitch, with the direct finish. I'd say the route is more like E2/3 and definite 5b/c. P2 is hard leaving the groove and gaining the slab, probably 5b and quite runout. P3, 5b at least, maybe soft 5c. Felt loads harder than Kalahari anyway. Memorable route! Beware the gravel. E2 5b ***

gforce 15/May/12 Lead
with Adrian
Duncan Campbell 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches. 2nd is tricky, but a big camalot 4(?) would make it seem safer and less pumpy. Top pitch is a lovely, funky E1 5b pitch. Not bold or sustained enough to warrant E2 IMO. Great little route though!

with Andy Vet
Andrew Sloan 12/May/12 2nd
with Duncan
Martin Haworth 28/Apr/12 AltLd O/S


Brannock 28/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3 after Martin ran 1 and 2 together. Really good route, sustained interesting climbing, more like E2?

Ollie B 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

P1 & 2 strung together

with Fingers
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Drew M 21/Sep/11 AltLd
Luke Brooks 11/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with John Orr
Tom Livingstone 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 27/Aug/11 AltLd
mux 21/Aug/11 Lead rpt

With nicole age 14yrs

with nicole almond
Nicole Almond 21/Aug/11 2nd dog

absailed down in near artic conditions then the sun came out just as we started climbing... RED HOT! nice climb, a bit loose at first but the second pitch was good :)

with dave gary
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
simon1965 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with paul
Owain Llewelyn 10/Jun/11 2nd
with Gareth E
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
robertmichaeladams 31/May/11 AltLd
with Susan
ksjs 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Really good fun, my first experience of Yellow Walls. P2 is a delight on some cool features. Top pitch, also good (finished up crack), didn't have loads of gear. I thought belay on P2 was well left of that described / shown in NW Rock.

with rob
Rob Pitt 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
david morse 29/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

A tricky middle pitch and a serious top pitch, definitely E2

with chris todd
Hidden 29/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
phil64 30/Aug/10 AltLd

superb, direct finish is cool

Owain Llewelyn 11/Jul/10 Lead
with Dad
Bristoldave 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
CarolineH 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Dave
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
liam 22 ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
Alex Mason 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Mikey ledfirst i led on his gear. all one pitch. a good day getting my head back.

with Mikey G
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Sam Underhill
Carly 15/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Richard
Hidden 15/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 Lead
Dave Rumney 16/Aug/09 AltLd
Toby Dunn 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Glyn Davidson 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1+2 together, Ste lead pitch 3. All the holds on pitch 2 were covered in dusty sepege stuff. Seemed harder than Creeping Lemma.

with Ste Davies
gdb4060 19/Apr/09 AltLd

Lead first two pitches. 2nd pitch i found quite hard on less than perfect gear.

with Mike
mike lawrence? 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

led top pitch

with Giles
Hidden 03/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/08 AltLd O/S
centurion05 30/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with chris thorne
A Crook 17/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Did 5c fininsh

Dom Whillans ?/Feb/08 AltLd
with dave garry, ad crook
Will1 ??/2008 -
Hidden 29/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 30/Sep/07 AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mux ??/2007 AltLd O/S

So good I have done it twice. a great addition to any day on yellow wall, warm up or cool down.

with Simon Frost , Neil Griffiths
andi turner 25/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with nick cotton
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 25/Aug/05 Lead
NeilGriffiths 14/May/05 AltLd
with Dave Garry
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 31/Mar/96 2nd
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade - E2 5b ?

with Glanfor
Tony Little 07/Nov/92 Solo β

Got bored waiting for Guy and soloed up while he was finding a belay...the impatience of youth!

Hidden 23/May/92 2nd
Hidden ?/May/90 Lead
Hidden 01/May/88 2nd β
mikej 15/Sep/82 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Mark Kemball 12/Jul/80 Lead
with Steve Finch
Hidden 25/Aug/79 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1979 2nd

Hated it but i wasn't used to the South Stack experience!

with Mark 'Chin' Whatsisname
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1979 Lead
with Will Walker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Hidden, madeleine
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set