Rockfax Description
III, 215m. In the days before bolts, the ascent of this route using only pegs and wooden wedges was visionary. It is usually climbed free these days but even proficient granite climbers will struggle on pitch 6. Climb the snow couloir for 20m before traversing left onto a good ledge and the start of the route. If the couloir is very dry it can be difficult and dangerous to climb. In these conditions climb the first pitch of Tabou to reach the ledge.
1) 5c. Go to the far left end of the ledge and climb the slabby corner directly below an orange overhang. Belay just left of the overhang, directly below a steep corner with grey rock on the left and bright orange rock on the right.
2) 6b. Climb the corner (possible intermediate belay at the end of this) and cracks above to a small belay ledge.
3) 5c. Step left from the belay and follow the crack to an overlap. This is exposed but easier than it looks and very well protected.
4) 5c. The parallel cracks to the right of the belay are sensational and lead to a ledge and junction with Tabou.
5) 2. Cross the exposed ledge to a belay below a steep crack.
6) 7b. Climb the crack - brutal and sustained so be ready for a fight! Step right at the top and belay on a small ledge.
7) 5c. Quality easier climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

W.Bonatti, R.Gallieni (some aid) 3-4.8.1960.

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