UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 16/05/2023  

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23m. Starts from the pillar belay of Almost Me. Climb the wall left of Almost Me through the bulges to good holds at the top of a white tufa pillar. Stretch left to a good hold in the break then swing left to join Hummingbird for its final corner.

Bill Gregory, Ollie Burrows 20/May/2016.

Ticklists

The road to Statement of Youth , Ban-y-Gor Master , Bristol Bangers , 7Bs with stars near Bristol

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User Date Notes
J1_TOV 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Follows a line of staples, ignoring the rusty bolts. To get started, shuffle left on the upper ledge where the two staples are close together next to 'almost me 7c' then climb directly from there to staple 2 (hang it long). There is a cruxy move just below staple 2 with the redpoint crux being getting up to the white tufa. Be cunning here even if you're short and you'll get it. If you haven't done hummin bird you're in for a surprise at the top.
Show beta
βeta: Follows a line of staples, ignoring the rusty bolts. To get started, shuffle left on the upper ledge where the two staples are close together next to 'almost me 7c' then climb directly from there to staple 2 (hang it long). There is a cruxy move just below staple 2 with the redpoint crux being getting up to the white tufa. Be cunning here even if you're short and you'll get it. If you haven't done hummin bird you're in for a surprise at the top.

Logged Ascents

10 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
West Country Climbs Cover
West Country Climbs (2022)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Wye Valley Sport Cover
Wye Valley Sport (2021)
Great Western Rock
By Gordon A Jenkin
Wye Valley Sport Cover
Wye Valley Sport (2017)
GWR
By G. Jenkin & M. Davies
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Latest Craze

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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