Poor conditions, lots of unconsolidated snow kicking around. Descent route was in great nick though. Descended to Argentine same day. Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14
First Alpine peak, great adventure. Took 13 hours. Bad vis on glacier approach made crevasse-crossing tricky. Unexpected bergschrund. Mixed was fun. Soft snow, calves got super-pumped on steep neve section. Final snow ridge had no gear and felt avalanchey with warm sun, and breakable crust. Narrowly avoided a falling rock. Finished with overhanging rock, great weather on summit. Abseil descent (11 sections?) took forever with storm clouds rolling in. Abbed into Bergschrund and had to swim across collapsing snow bridge. Great fun junping crevasses on the walk back. Missed last telepherique and had to walk down to the valley on sore feet.
Edvenables - Aug/14 with Robert Taylor
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/14
Superb climb. 3am left Albert Prem, direct approach across glacier but very crevassed so a few wrong turns meant bergshrund at 5.10. Amazing conditions so simul climbed whole route topping out at 7.55am. 4 Hour descent on shitty unconsolidated snow. Amazing day out
cmaradcliffe - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14
Sam Ash - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Matt Forshaw
Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/14
Bivied in a snow cave 30mins walk into the plateau. 10hrs hole-summit-hole. Found mainly good quality ice & clear rock (bar some sugary wading for a few pitches) and moved together in the most part. Experienced all four seasons and more ina day. We got swirled up in some clouds and snowfall on the descent with some knee buckling gusts that made everything quite serious for a short while. Walked straight down to Le Tour to conclude a fantastic beastly outing. Not to be underestimated.
ndraper1 - 28/Jun/14 with Joel Evans
joelevanschamonix - AltLd β - 28/Jun/14 with ndraper1
3 hours to climb, 7 to descend. If you've not done the descent before I wouldn't recommend trying it in less then 10m of vis like we did. Great climb though.
Gumery - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Charlie, Grant
McGuinness - 20/Jun/14 with Dave, Nick
quick on the way up, lost in the fog on way down..
fulton333 - Lead - Jun/14 with Johnny, Charlie Edwards
3am start, topped out on summit at 12pm after a long battle with loose unconsolidated snow. had to dig quite deep to get to good ice for protection. Excellent route nonetheless. Lovely weather. got back to the hut for 4pm after opting to return the most direct route.
highclimber - 25/Sep/13 with Alex Marchant
Unconsolidated snow, but awesome day out with everyone. Great night in the Albert Premier.
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with Hannah Gibbs
Hidden - 25/Sep/13
Hidden - 25/Sep/13
Started at 1:30am, climbed most of it in the dark. A brilliant route.
Finn Curry - 2nd - 24/Aug/13 with Tim Blakemore
jcw - 2013
James Thacker - 2013
Dave Searle - 2013
Climbed the route planning to ski back down it after the first descent last weekend, but found very bad conditions (for skiing) so skied the west couloir.
Ben Briggs - Solo O/S - 01/Dec/12 with Tom
chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12
Rather soft and bare. Chris led two ice pitches from bergschrund and the harder mixed pitches on the spur; I led long runout up sugary snow arete
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Chris Allan
Great route, approach and descent require a bit of care to negotiate crevasses and bergshrund.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 16/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope
Awesome condition, left the Albert Premier at 0430. Great route. Good rock belays along the route to the left and right of the line. Slightly more exposed at the top with less opportunity for runners other than screws.
chris687 - 2nd - 12/Jul/12 with Nelly, john holliday
luke321 - Jul/12 with Tom Jagger
Hidden - 24/Jun/12
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul
Hidden - 2012
np134 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with C. Price
Moved together the entire route. Simply amazing.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11
Too slow really. I'll blame my age - The Apprentice will blame his 3rd lumbar vertibrae.
John Workman - Lead - 05/Jul/11 with Apprentice
Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/11
tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis
Hidden - Jul/11
Hidden - Lead - Aug/10
Almost a solo, but banged in a few screws
tskelhon - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Max
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/10
Bristoldave - Lead - 25/Jun/10 with CarolineH
CarolineH - 25/Jun/10 with Dave
lawrenceK - AltLd - 21/Jun/10
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Chris James
4.5 hours hut to summit
HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Tom Ripley
Diggler - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with jonah
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/08
Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/08
springaren - 2nd - Jun/08 with Christian
great route, quite tricky route finding and involved descent - would be horrible in bad weather
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/07 with Colin Morrison
decs - 04/Aug/07 with Mike
1st climb of then season - Albert prem was full so bivied in a tent in a gale, so no sleep. Stayed completely on snow/ice, passing close to the seracs, which were not big that yr. Upper section just with enough neve - back at Prem by 12.30
Cham32 - Jun/07
Hidden - AltLd - Sep/06
sgl - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/05 with Konnie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/05
brockers - Jul/03 with CarlZ
Hidden - 30/Jun/03
nige pacer - 2nd O/S - Jul/99
stokesrees - AltLd - Jun/97 with Francois Marcotte
stokienomad - AltLd - 26/Jul/93
Retreated after being hit by rockfall
Budge - AltLd dnf - 1992 with Dave's Fireman Mate
A good climb with the only difficulties being an easy angled offwidth immediately on the right of the seracs.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/91
Hidden - Aug/85
Mostly solo, 2 1/2 pitches with a pair who followed me when I got lost.
Mike C - AltLd - 11/Aug/80 with Alain & Janeau Comeau
Hidden - Aug/80
Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/79 with Martin Kaye
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/77
Bolt Phobia - AltLd - Jul/75
granitbahn - AltLd - Jul/70