Migot Spur*** AD+
[Valentine Fabre at sunrise on the Migot Spur, 3 kb]500m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Valentine Fabre at sunrise on the Migot Spur © Ben Tibbetts
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This climb is in 79 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Sep/14

joe_lancs - Lead - 08/Sep/14

Moved together. Great conditions, ice runnel was busy so took a variant mixed line to the right at approx Scottish tech 4. Complex descent back to the Albert Premier.
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with James Thompson

1 icy pitch in the middle, rest moved together, 1st route of the trip
simondunf - AltLd - 22/Aug/14 with caspar

Hidden - 21/Aug/14

Poor conditions, lots of unconsolidated snow kicking around. Descent route was in great nick though. Descended to Argentine same day.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14

First Alpine peak, great adventure. Took 13 hours. Bad vis on glacier approach made crevasse-crossing tricky. Unexpected bergschrund. Mixed was fun. Soft snow, calves got super-pumped on steep neve section. Final snow ridge had no gear and felt avalanchey with warm sun, and breakable crust. Narrowly avoided a falling rock. Finished with overhanging rock, great weather on summit. Abseil descent (11 sections?) took forever with storm clouds rolling in. Abbed into Bergschrund and had to swim across collapsing snow bridge. Great fun junping crevasses on the walk back. Missed last telepherique and had to walk down to the valley on sore feet.
Edvenables - Aug/14 with Robert Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/14

Superb climb. 3am left Albert Prem, direct approach across glacier but very crevassed so a few wrong turns meant bergshrund at 5.10. Amazing conditions so simul climbed whole route topping out at 7.55am. 4 Hour descent on shitty unconsolidated snow. Amazing day out
DigitalSteak - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14

Sam Ash - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Matt Forshaw

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/14

Nemmie - Jul/14

Bivied in a snow cave 30mins walk into the plateau. 10hrs hole-summit-hole. Found mainly good quality ice & clear rock (bar some sugary wading for a few pitches) and moved together in the most part. Experienced all four seasons and more ina day. We got swirled up in some clouds and snowfall on the descent with some knee buckling gusts that made everything quite serious for a short while. Walked straight down to Le Tour to conclude a fantastic beastly outing. Not to be underestimated.
ndraper1 - 28/Jun/14 with Joel Evans

joelevanschamonix - AltLd β - 28/Jun/14 with ndraper1

3 hours to climb, 7 to descend. If you've not done the descent before I wouldn't recommend trying it in less then 10m of vis like we did. Great climb though.
Gumery - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Charlie, Grant

McGuinness - 20/Jun/14 with Dave, Nick

quick on the way up, lost in the fog on way down..
fulton333 - Lead - Jun/14 with Johnny, Charlie Edwards

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

3am start, topped out on summit at 12pm after a long battle with loose unconsolidated snow. had to dig quite deep to get to good ice for protection. Excellent route nonetheless. Lovely weather. got back to the hut for 4pm after opting to return the most direct route.
highclimber - 25/Sep/13 with Alex Marchant

Unconsolidated snow, but awesome day out with everyone. Great night in the Albert Premier.
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with Hannah Gibbs

Hidden - 25/Sep/13

Hidden - 25/Sep/13

Started at 1:30am, climbed most of it in the dark. A brilliant route.
Finn Curry - 2nd - 24/Aug/13 with Tim Blakemore

jcw - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Dave Searle - 2013

Climbed the route planning to ski back down it after the first descent last weekend, but found very bad conditions (for skiing) so skied the west couloir.
Ben Briggs - Solo O/S - 01/Dec/12 with Tom

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12

Rather soft and bare. Chris led two ice pitches from bergschrund and the harder mixed pitches on the spur; I led long runout up sugary snow arete
theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Chris Allan

Great route, approach and descent require a bit of care to negotiate crevasses and bergshrund.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 16/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jul/12

luke321 - Jul/12 with Tom Jagger

Hidden - 24/Jun/12

Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul

Hidden - 2012

np134 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with C. Price

Moved together the entire route. Simply amazing.
Karl Wooffindin - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Ollie Hemstock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11

Too slow really. I'll blame my age - The Apprentice will blame his 3rd lumbar vertibrae.
John Workman - Lead - 05/Jul/11 with Apprentice

Very good snow conditions to the schrund, after that it went downhill - rapdily, crossed schrund far left (Only safe place to do so) and went into horrible rotten snow, it would appear that there is water running beneath it which has made it slushy and horrible ! felt like the whole slab above the schrund could come off and slide freely as i climbed, Water coming down the first mixed section, needless to say we backed off.
Petarghh - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/11

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

Hidden - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

Almost a solo, but banged in a few screws
tskelhon - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Max

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/10

Bristoldave - Lead - 25/Jun/10 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 25/Jun/10 with Dave

lawrenceK - AltLd - 21/Jun/10

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Chris James

4.5 hours hut to summit
HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Tom Ripley

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with jonah

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/08

Hidden - Solo - 24/Jun/08

springaren - 2nd - Jun/08 with Christian

great route, quite tricky route finding and involved descent - would be horrible in bad weather
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/07 with Colin Morrison

decs - 04/Aug/07 with Mike

1st climb of then season - Albert prem was full so bivied in a tent in a gale, so no sleep. Stayed completely on snow/ice, passing close to the seracs, which were not big that yr. Upper section just with enough neve - back at Prem by 12.30
Cham32 - Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/06

sgl - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/05 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/05

Hidden - Jul/03

Hidden - 30/Jun/03

nige pacer - 2nd O/S - Jul/99

stokesrees - AltLd - Jun/97 with Francois Marcotte

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/96

stokienomad - AltLd - 26/Jul/93

Retreated after being hit by rockfall
Budge - AltLd dnf - 1992 with Dave's Fireman Mate

A good climb with the only difficulties being an easy angled offwidth immediately on the right of the seracs.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/91

Hidden - Aug/85

Mostly solo, 2 1/2 pitches with a pair who followed me when I got lost.
Mike C - AltLd - 11/Aug/80 with Alain & Janeau Comeau

Hidden - Aug/80

Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/79 with Martin Kaye

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/77

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - Jul/75

granitbahn - AltLd - Jul/70

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
NickBrown, laurence_falconer, MrJWilliams92, ian.ross.bnc, al jackson, efetunc, Nath93, stanleynkk, Swampi, oliverk, Ronan O Keeffe, Timothy Miller, thomaspomfrett, sweenyt, tompilgrem, alexanderjwatts, vincentvega, mathquirk, Watty

Total votes cast 28
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