500m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

QuentinSu 26/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden 08/Sep/14 AltLd
joe_lancs 08/Sep/14 Lead
alexm198 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Great conditions, ice runnel was busy so took a variant mixed line to the right at approx Scottish tech 4. Complex descent back to the Albert Premier.

with James Thompson
simondunf 22/Aug/14 AltLd

1 icy pitch in the middle, rest moved together, 1st route of the trip

with caspar
Hidden 21/Aug/14 -
Roberttaylor 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Poor conditions, lots of unconsolidated snow kicking around. Descent route was in great nick though. Descended to Argentine same day.

Edvenables ?/Aug/14 -

First Alpine peak, great adventure. Took 13 hours. Bad vis on glacier approach made crevasse-crossing tricky. Unexpected bergschrund. Mixed was fun. Soft snow, calves got super-pumped on steep neve section. Final snow ridge had no gear and felt avalanchey with warm sun, and breakable crust. Narrowly avoided a falling rock. Finished with overhanging rock, great weather on summit. Abseil descent (11 sections?) took forever with storm clouds rolling in. Abbed into Bergschrund and had to swim across collapsing snow bridge. Great fun junping crevasses on the walk back. Missed last telepherique and had to walk down to the valley on sore feet.

with Robert Taylor
Hidden 25/Jul/14 AltLd
DigitalSteak 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Superb climb. 3am left Albert Prem, direct approach across glacier but very crevassed so a few wrong turns meant bergshrund at 5.10. Amazing conditions so simul climbed whole route topping out at 7.55am. 4 Hour descent on shitty unconsolidated snow. Amazing day out

Sam Ash 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Forshaw
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead
Nemmie ?/Jul/14 -
ndraper1 28/Jun/14 -

Bivied in a snow cave 30mins walk into the plateau. 10hrs hole-summit-hole. Found mainly good quality ice & clear rock (bar some sugary wading for a few pitches) and moved together in the most part. Experienced all four seasons and more ina day. We got swirled up in some clouds and snowfall on the descent with some knee buckling gusts that made everything quite serious for a short while. Walked straight down to Le Tour to conclude a fantastic beastly outing. Not to be underestimated.

with Joel Evans
joelevanschamonix 28/Jun/14 AltLd β


Gumery 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

3 hours to climb, 7 to descend. If you've not done the descent before I wouldn't recommend trying it in less then 10m of vis like we did. Great climb though.

McGuinness 20/Jun/14 -
with Dave, Nick
fulton333 ?/Jun/14 Lead

quick on the way up, lost in the fog on way down..

Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
highclimber 25/Sep/13 -

3am start, topped out on summit at 12pm after a long battle with loose unconsolidated snow. had to dig quite deep to get to good ice for protection. Excellent route nonetheless. Lovely weather. got back to the hut for 4pm after opting to return the most direct route.

Sam Simpson 25/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Unconsolidated snow, but awesome day out with everyone. Great night in the Albert Premier.

Hidden 25/Sep/13 -
Hidden 25/Sep/13 -
Finn Curry 24/Aug/13 2nd

Started at 1:30am, climbed most of it in the dark. A brilliant route.

with Tim Blakemore
HosteDenis ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Dave Searle ??/2013 -
Ben Briggs 01/Dec/12 Solo O/S

Climbed the route planning to ski back down it after the first descent last weekend, but found very bad conditions (for skiing) so skied the west couloir.

with Tom
chrisallan 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Rather soft and bare. Chris led two ice pitches from bergschrund and the harder mixed pitches on the spur; I led long runout up sugary snow arete

Ken Applegate 16/Jul/12 AltLd

Great route, approach and descent require a bit of care to negotiate crevasses and bergshrund.

with Scott Kirkhope
chris687 12/Jul/12 2nd

Awesome condition, left the Albert Premier at 0430. Great route. Good rock belays along the route to the left and right of the line. Slightly more exposed at the top with less opportunity for runners other than screws.

with Nelly, john holliday
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden 24/Jun/12 -
Stuart Johnston 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Ben Tibbetts, Misha Gopaul
np134 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with C. Price
Karl Wooffindin 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Moved together the entire route. Simply amazing.

with Ollie Hemstock
Hidden 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
John Workman 05/Jul/11 Lead

Too slow really. I'll blame my age - The Apprentice will blame his 3rd lumbar vertibrae.

with Apprentice
Petarghh 01/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Very good snow conditions to the schrund, after that it went downhill - rapdily, crossed schrund far left (Only safe place to do so) and went into horrible rotten snow, it would appear that there is water running beneath it which has made it slushy and horrible ! felt like the whole slab above the schrund could come off and slide freely as i climbed, Water coming down the first mixed section, needless to say we backed off.

Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead
tskelhon 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Almost a solo, but banged in a few screws

with Max
Hidden 01/Jul/10 2nd
Bristoldave 25/Jun/10 Lead
CarolineH 25/Jun/10 -
with Dave
lawrenceK 21/Jun/10 AltLd
Rob84 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
hamish2016 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

4.5 hours hut to summit

with Tom Ripley
Diggler 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jonah
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Solo
springaren ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Christian
nickdonohue ?/Sep/07 Lead

great route, quite tricky route finding and involved descent - would be horrible in bad weather

with Colin Morrison
decs 04/Aug/07 -
with Mike
Cham32 ?/Jun/07 -

1st climb of then season - Albert prem was full so bivied in a tent in a gale, so no sleep. Stayed completely on snow/ice, passing close to the seracs, which were not big that yr. Upper section just with enough neve - back at Prem by 12.30

Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd
j.anstee 20/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Guided post MB climb.

sgl 09/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 09/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
brockers ?/Jul/03 -
with CarlZ
Hidden 30/Jun/03 -
nige pacer ?/Jul/99 2nd O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with JThomas
stokesrees ?/Jun/97 AltLd
with Francois Marcotte
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
stokienomad 26/Jul/93 AltLd
Budge ??/1992 AltLd dnf

Retreated after being hit by rockfall

with Dave's Fireman Mate
Pete_Frost 28/Jul/91 AltLd O/S

A good climb with the only difficulties being an easy angled offwidth immediately on the right of the seracs.

with Stuart Turnbull
Hidden ?/Aug/85 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
Mike C 11/Aug/80 AltLd

Mostly solo, 2 1/2 pitches with a pair who followed me when I got lost.

with Alain & Janeau Comeau
Nevil ?/Aug/80 -
with Steve
Falko 01/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Martin Kaye
Hidden ?/Aug/77 AltLd
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/75 AltLd
granitbahn ?/Jul/70 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Morrell, Larey, Euan Todd, Hidden, NickBrown, Hidden, laurence_falconer, MrJWilliams92, ian.ross.bnc, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, al jackson, efetunc, Hidden, Hidden, Nath93, stanleynkk, Hidden, Hidden, oliverk, Ronan O Keeffe, Hidden, Timothy Miller, Hidden, Hidden, thomaspomfrett, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, sweenyt, Hidden, tompilgrem, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, vincentvega, Hidden, mathquirk, Watty
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Votes cast 12
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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