Cumbria > Gimmer Crag >
 
Hiatus** VS 4b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Dancin' Barefoot		 
Hiatus: Bridge's Variation >>
[Gimmer's NW Frontier and the line of Hiatus (P 1 omitted), 4 kb]4 pitches. Pitch 1 (4b) Climb the steep wall just left of the start of The Crack (by-passing the queues) to a ledge. Sneak round left over grass ledges (to avoid the hard steep crack) to climb a broad scoop, then round the arête to climb its right side, passing the crowds on the stance for The Crack, Dight, Gimmer String, etc. (It is possible but less pleasant to climb the right leaning corner/gully to reach the same point). Cross the dank gully and climb ledges diagonally left to reach a large cosy ledge at the foot of the huge soaring corner groove. Pitch 2 (4b) Climb the initially manky corner for about 10m to a ledge on the left (tiny juniper tree). (Inertia starts here, up the hanging groove to the right.) Continue up awkward cracks, then the corner proper, finally the slab (loose block) to a fine small stance in a shallow recess. Pitch 3 (4b) The best 4b pitch on the crag, with superb and devious climbing in spectacular and exposed positions. Steady leader and second required. Climb up rightwards towards the corner then traverse left over an alarmingly perched pillar to reach a small chimney. Up again, then traverse left across the overhung and undercut slab to reach the foot of a square-cut L-facing corner. Climb this for 2m then follow a devious up-and-down traverse below a hanging rib to reach a groove leading to a superbly positioned stance. Pitch 4 (4b) Short but sweet. Neglect the evil-looking mossy cracks above (Bridge's Variation, 5a) in favour of the exposed slabs up and left, and finish up a short awkward groove.

Photo: Gimmer's NW Frontier and the line of Hiatus (P 1 omitted) © Rog Wilko
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Lee Sheard - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Dave

Poor protection for its grade.Contrived,average route.
DPaul - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Lee

Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with stewart murray

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/10

beaumap - AltLd - 2009 with Peter Camp

Seymore Butt - 2009

Rob Rocket - AltLd - 08/Aug/07 with Dave Wearing

Dave Wearing - AltLd - 08/Aug/07 with Rocket.

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jul/07

Loose rock and not well protected.
five - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/06 with PM

jim robertson - 2006

Nick Beckett - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/04

An unjustly neglected route. There is a rather grotty start to pitch 2 but otherwise this is a great route. The third pitch is in my opinion the best 4b pitch in Langdale, if not the whole Lakes. It is fantastically exposed, with intricate route finding. Even if the rest of the route were a load of rubbish (which it certainly isn't) this would make it worth doing. Best after a dry spell of a week or so.
Rog Wilko - Lead - May/00 with Debbie Wilkinson

Dave Westby - Lead - 1995 with Phil Caley

Andy Say - Lead - 08/May/93

Hammy - Lead - 30/Jun/82 with Pete Smith

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1981

Lone Rider - AltLd - May/77

A super days climbing in excellent weather
munro109 - 2nd - 26/Apr/74 with Robin Andrews & Fran Bashford

Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 16/Jun/70 with Phil --

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 05/Jul/69 with Jim Worthington

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve Waters, Mynydd, JanBella, alexanderjwatts, Lumbering Oaf, Hidden
Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard HVS0 of 5
HVS0 of 5
easy HVS0 of 5
hard VS2 of 5
VS3 of 5
easy VS0 of 5
hard HS0 of 5
HS0 of 5
easy HS0 of 5
hard 4c0 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c3 of 5
hard 4b1 of 5
4b1 of 5
easy 4b0 of 5
hard 4a0 of 5
4a0 of 5
easy 4a0 of 5
3 Stars1 of 5
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1 Star3 of 5
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Style of ascent

Lead7 of 23 (30.4%)
Followed2 of 23 (8.7%)
Alt Leads11 of 23 (47.8%)
Unknown3 of 23 (13.0%)

'Climbed'18 of 23 (78.3%)
clean O/S5 of 23 (21.7%)