750m.
Approach: the party should head up the east branch of the Dzhirnagaktu glacier aiming just right of the triangular buttress between Uighur and Point 5102. 1h30.
Route: Climb snow slopes on the right of the buttress at around 30º, surmounting a steeper sections to gain a snow spur. Follow this to the col between 5102 and the small mountain between Uighur and 5102 that is not marked on any map (200m). From this take the first very wide, narrowing gully (250m), followed by a system of runnels, spurs gulleys and snow crests to the tri-point on the ridge at 5090m (120m, 50-75º snow/ice). 5h to this point on first ascent. From here follow the ridge south until a precarious crest ofpoor rock is reached. This is the highest point on the ridge, excluding the significantly higher mountains on the Chinese side of the border. 7h on first ascent.
Descent: Scramble back down the ridge to a gap twenty meters short of the top out and abseil diagonally from a solid block onto the route. From there at least one more sixty meter abseil is necessary (and it is probably best to use a total of three sixty meter abseils) before a walk off back down the route becomes feasible. 4 hours on descent, though parties possessing an Abalakov threader may significantly cut down the time.
Route: Climb snow slopes on the right of the buttress at around 30º, surmounting a steeper sections to gain a snow spur. Follow this to the col between 5102 and the small mountain between Uighur and 5102 that is not marked on any map (200m). From this take the first very wide, narrowing gully (250m), followed by a system of runnels, spurs gulleys and snow crests to the tri-point on the ridge at 5090m (120m, 50-75º snow/ice). 5h to this point on first ascent. From here follow the ridge south until a precarious crest ofpoor rock is reached. This is the highest point on the ridge, excluding the significantly higher mountains on the Chinese side of the border. 7h on first ascent.
Descent: Scramble back down the ridge to a gap twenty meters short of the top out and abseil diagonally from a solid block onto the route. From there at least one more sixty meter abseil is necessary (and it is probably best to use a total of three sixty meter abseils) before a walk off back down the route becomes feasible. 4 hours on descent, though parties possessing an Abalakov threader may significantly cut down the time.
Azwan Isa and Alek Zholobenko 01/Sep/2012.
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Route of Interest
Pik 4780 Central Couloir
Grade: D ***
(Sarychat)