UKC

30m. An awesome route up the wall left of the big chimney. One of the best routes in the area.

Toni Arbones.

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User Date Notes
dryvita 2 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Tried this today and discovered the massive flake below the roof right at the top is worryingly loose and flexes alarmingly when you pull on it. It wouldn’t be so bad but as far as I can tell there’s no way to reach the next hold except literally yarding on it in a layback, exactly the same thing you’d do if you were TRYING to pull it off. I did the move off it before I realised and it (obviously) stayed on but on closer inspection it just seemed insanely risky to us, you can see a crack running down two sides of it so it’s only fully attached at the bottom - full on dead belayer and/or cut rope territory if it did come off. Felt unjustifiable to keep trying the route, we bailed
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tried this today and discovered the massive flake below the roof right at the top is worryingly loose and flexes alarmingly when you pull on it. It wouldn’t be so bad but as far as I can tell there’s no way to reach the next hold except literally yarding on it in a layback, exactly the same thing you’d do if you were TRYING to pull it off. I did the move off it before I realised and it (obviously) stayed on but on closer inspection it just seemed insanely risky to us, you can see a crack running down two sides of it so it’s only fully attached at the bottom - full on dead belayer and/or cut rope territory if it did come off. Felt unjustifiable to keep trying the route, we bailed

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Guidebooks for Siurana - Village

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pa la saca

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Siurana - Village)

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