Rockfax Description
II, 420m. Start immediately right of a deep chimney/crack.
1) 5c. Climb the slab right of the chimney then step left into it.
2) 6a+. Move left on a slab then go up a tricky crack and through a small roof.
3) 5c. Climb the slab right of the belay then a thin crack.
4) 6a+. A steep pitch up some distinctive nubbins on white rock.
5) 5c. Step right above the belay then go up a vague gully.
6) 5b. Cross easy ledges then climb a short corner.
7) 4c. More easy ledges lead to a comfortable stance.
8) 5b. Step left and climb a short slab then come back right to belay at the start of a short ridge.
9) 6a. Move left off the belay and climb a superb series of cracks before heading right to a stance.
10) 5c. Climb the corner to the right of the belay (quite exposed at the start) then come back left to a ledge.
11) 6b+. A route with the crux where it should be! Go straight up for 5m above the belay and then step right and go up a wall to reach the top of a small pinnacle. This pitch can be avoided by going left (5c), instead of right, above the belay and climbing an excellent corner to reach the same pinnacle. © Rockfax
FA. M.Piola, S.Strappazzon, P.Strappazzon 11.7.2003 11/Jul/2003.
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Grade: ED2 ***
(Les Dru)