UKC

1250m.

Rockfax Description
This via ferrata is a true classic of the area and is dedicated to an Italian soldier who was posthumously awarded the Gold Medal for Military Valour for his part in the First World War. It brings together all the aspects which characterise this part of the Dolomites - from historic war tunnels to excellent exposed climbing on fantastic rock, coupled with some truly superb views. The climbing is consistent but never too difficult, and the route is long but never boring. Good weather and an early start are recommended if you want the best shot at a cloud-free summit but, should bad weather prevail, there is an escape route which avoids the summit and leads directly to Rifugio Giussani.
Approach - The usual approach is from Rifugio Dibona slightly southeast of Tofana di Rozes. From Cortina d'Ampezzo, take the SS48 to the west following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Continue through Pocol ignoring the turn off for the passo Giau (SP638 ). After 3km past Pocol, turn right under a wooden height barrier signed 'Parco delle Dolomiti d'Ampezzo'. Follow the road to a fork and turn left. The road deteriorates as it ascends to reach a large car park by Rifugio Dibona. From Rifugio Dibona, follow the vehicle track (path 403 ) towards Rifugio Giussani. On reaching the top of a teleferica (goods cableway), turn left onto path 404 (previously marked as path 442 on some maps), following signs for 'via ferrata Giovanni Lipella'. Continue on path 404, which contours left around the base of the face, passing underneath three aretes. At the next fork, follow signs uphill (right) to reach the entrance to the Galleria del Castelleto.
Enter the tunnels using a combination of ladders, stemples and cable. Continue to reach an opening - it is possible to exit the tunnels here, cutting right across scree ledges, but for the true experience, continue uphill in the tunnels to reach a second opening. Descend stemples (which can be quite tricky, particularly in the case of two-way traffic!) to join the scree ledge. Follow the ledge to reach the start of the ferrata itself. It's worth noting that the tunnels can be avoided entirely, approaching the wire from Forcella Col dei Bos.
VF - The route begins with straightforward climbing up easy ground to reach a ledge. Follow this left, then continue with more interesting and energetic climbing to reach a second ledge. Continue left then vertically to reach a series of chimneys then continue over more ledges to reach a larger ledge, with red graffiti on the rock in front. Here it is possible to escape left, following ledges until joining the descent route to Rifugio Giussani. To continue with the route, follow the arrow right (to 'Cima', meaning summit) to reach a huge amphitheatre of rock. Continue with steep climbing for 30m or so then follow the wire rightwards to reach another ledge. Follow this right then overcome a final steep section to exit the wire and reach the path of the normal route. Steep, slightly loose but straightforward walking leads you to the large and impressive summit cross and some truly spectacular views.
Descent - From the summit, retrace the path, ignoring the exit from the wire, to reach a series of stepped scree ledges that lead down the northeast side. Follow these (a combination of blue and red markers indicate some of the many possible routes) down to Rifugio Giussani. A well-earned beer later, descend path 403 easily back to Rifugio Dibona. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
of ascent, 600m of VF. A long sustained VF leading to the summit of Tofana de Rozes, including a long stretch through a WW1 tunnel.

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Big Routes , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites , Dolomites

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Bolver-Lugli

Grade: VF4C ***
(Cima di Vezzana)

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