UKC

Restricted Access

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
A big pitch starting from the centre of the block platform. Climb the wall past threads moving right then back left. Continue to the mid-height break. Go up the wall the rightwards before following a line of holds back left to a junction with the top of Time and Tide. © Rockfax

FA. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 30/Aug/1987.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Follow the CC guidebook description and not the topo. The former takes you out left, up an easy corner; the latter takes you up a terrifying/loose wall with a 6b move at the top. Even with the easier finish it feels top end for E4, so be warned. Lower thread replaced Sept 2020.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Follow the CC guidebook description and not the topo. The former takes you out left, up an easy corner; the latter takes you up a terrifying/loose wall with a 6b move at the top. Even with the easier finish it feels top end for E4, so be warned. Lower thread replaced Sept 2020.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Route of Interest
Tangerine Dream

Grade: E4 6a ***
(St. Govan's Head)

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