UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
14m. This is a link up of Blueband (non strict) into reverse Staminaband into the boulder problem start of Wild in Me only, ending with both hands matched on the large flake before the crux of Wild in Me the route. In other words, this is the existing climb 'Juiced Up 8b+' (FA Haydn Jones May 2015) without adding the finish up the crux of Wild in Me (the route) to the jug by the second bolt. Useful for those not keen (or short of pads) for the slightly highball finish of Juiced Up which really needs 3 pads alone directly beneath the Wild in Me crux to make it safe.

Haydn Jones.

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Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
Route of Interest
Low Rider

Grade: f7C+ ***
(Stanage North)

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