|500m, 12 pitches. |
A classic route which follows a series of chimneys and cracks. The rock is generally sound, the climbing varied, and the difficulties only moderate. Given the aspect, the route can sometimes be climbed early in the season but beware of seepage from residual snow on the summit.
Start at the right side of the lower (right-hand) of the two scree cones at the base of the south face. Follow a grassy ledge to the start of the route, below a yellow crack, which is often marked with tat.
1) IV, 40m. Climb a yellow crack which gives way to a right-trending ramp. Follow this, keeping close to its left side, then cut across just after a peg to a 3-peg and ring belay on a small grassy pulpit, below shattered rock and a chimney groove on the right.
2) IV, 40m. Step right off the pulpit then climb easy grey rock to a rightwards-slanting chimney. Move right onto vegetated rock to a 2-peg stance on another smaller pulpit.
3) II, 55m. Take the left-hand of two parallel ramps, just right of the belay, and follow this up easy but loose ground, keeping 3m away from its yellow left wall. Where the rock gets darker, move right over chossy terraces to a 2-peg stance on grey rock, below a wide corner.
4) IV-, 50m. Traverse right below grass tussocks, taking either of two possible lines; one higher with tat, one lower and directly horizontal. Then step down around the arete to another grassy area on the right and a 2-peg belay below a black corner.
5) IV, 50m. Continue up the corner to the right of the belay for 45m then, at the top, step left to a 2-peg stance (it is also possible to exit just before the top on easier ground).
6) IV, 40m. Traverse right for 8m then climb direct on slabby grey rock, which is compact and easy but unprotected, to a 2-peg belay on a shallow ledge with stepped rock on the right.
7) IV-, 30m. Move right for 15m up a rising ledge then continue direct up grey slabby rock towards the left-hand of two distinct chimneys above.
8) IV, 40m. Climb the chimney to its end, then step left to a good ledge and a peg, below black slabs and a flared chimney on the left.
9) V-, 45m. Continue up the corner-crack above on the left then follow this with bold, slabby and smeary corner climbing to a niche below a bulge and a crack on the left.
10) V, 45m. From the niche, climb the crack, which is quite steep and bulgy, for 15m. Where the main crack carries on direct, either follow this (bold and traditional), or traverse 3m left to a yellow wall. Climb this direct with exposed climbing. Move around an arete and step right to a belay.
11) IV-, 50m. Move right from the stance on a ledge for 5m, then climb direct for a few metres, then follow a ledge back left. From here, climb direct with numerous possible lines to reach the chossy ledges below the summit. Peg and thread belay just before the path. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Pitches 9,10 and 11 provide the meat of route, superb sustained climbing up clean blank slabs, with a slight paucity of gear and an exposed move to finish. Take care to find the correct start.