UKC Logbook - 'Bonatti-Oggioni Route - Original Route, Red Pillar'

Rockfax Description
V, 400m or 1000m, 1 day. Another big route left by the Italian maestro Bonatti. The route is equipped with bolted belays so can either be abseiled after climbing it (although returning across the glacier late in the day may be tricky) or you can continue up the Brouillard Arête which dramatically increases the length of the day. To get to the route, descend behind the lower Eccles Hut for 20m and then make a 40m abseil onto the glacier. Cross the glacier, which is often tricky and pretty open and then ascend the couloir on the left of the pillar - this is best done early to avoid rockfall.
1) 4a. A short pitch up and right to a large ledge.
2) 6a. Climb the slab and then the crack above.
3) 5c. Keep following the crack system to a ledge.
4) 4a. Climb easily up to the top of the pillar.
5) 5a. Climb a cracked corner to a large ledge.
6) 4a. Climb the strip of quartz above the ledge to another ledge.
7) 5c. Climb the corner above and then step right into parallel cracks. Belay on the left of the corner.
8) 5c. Climb the right-hand crack and exit onto arête on the left.
9) 4a. Climb easily to the base of a chimney system.
10) 5c. Climb the chimneys.
11) 5b. Keep following the chimney system.
12) 4c. Climb a corner on the left and then another chimney on the left above.
13) 4b. Climb easily to the top to a ledge near the summit.
Abseiling - The first two abseils are best made off route on the left.
Brouillard Arête continuation - If continuing to Mont Blanc then expect to take a further 4-6 hours. Follow the ridge from the top of the pillar (4b, 2 rope lengths) then follow a couloir on the left to a short steeper step (4c), above this follow a further ridge and then easier ground to Picco Luigi Amedeo (4460m). Descend the ridge to a gap, cross this and climb the wall above (4a). Follow the ridge above to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6a,5c,3a,5a,4b,5c,5c,3b,5c,5b,4c then traverse 2 pitches of 4b, go up snow slopes to Point Amedee then join Brouillard ridge to Mont Blanc Courmayeur after joining the end of Innominata. Fantastic route and amazing ridge climbing which just keeps coming and coming.