100m, 4 pitches. A very good direct route with fine, well protected climbing. Start as for the cursing caterpillar. 1) 26M (5a) climb the flake and slab, as for the cursing caterpillar, until it is possible to move left to gain a short crack in a a bulge. Up this, then right to a ledge peg belay. 2) 28m (5b) step up right to a thin crack below a break in the bulge above. Pull up, step left and ascent the slab and corner to a thread belay below an overhang. 3) 15m (5a) climb the overhang and groove, then step up onto a grass ledge below a green wall. 4) 31m (5a) from the right side of the ledge, make an ascending traverse to a tree. Climb the crack above and swing left onto an arÍte then easy climbing to a tree belay.

lday 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing but was quite out of condition. Lots of moss on P2 and especially 3. I led P1 (quite bold and thin section up to the bulge) and 3. Final pitch is just calling for a 10+ m factor 2 fall on lead. Although the climbing isn't too difficult, this is worth noting and should definitely be mentioned in the guides.

Stroppy 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2 & P4. Definitely one for later in the summer, was quite wet and covered in moss when we did it, making the run out slabby bits all the more sketchy. P4 is fun but the start is very unprotected (until the tree) and could be a pretty serious fall.

with Liam
greenroom 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P1 and 2. Good lead by Dave on P1. Popped a cam out on crux P2 looking at a long fall onto Dave's head.

with katie, Dave Sharpe
stuart34 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben Smith
johang 16/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Chris lead 1st pitch, I took 2nd. Was then decided that the top was looking waaaaayyyy to scrappy and the pub would be a better option.

with Chris Swanepoel
Nick Clement 08/Jun/13 AltLd

First 2 pitches provide excellent interesting climbing although quite mossy in places, very vegetated 3rd pitch.

with Paul Figg
Paul Figg 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Sam Simpson 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
tmawer 25/May/13 AltLd rpt
with Andy 2
Siderunner 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4, both with a little short lived but enjoyable spice

with Tony
drysori 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
yashvi 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Steve Seal, Adam Booth
msoldn 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches, I led first two, Nick the second two. Reasonable gear, but you have to look for it. Sweet technical moves through the crux. Gotta keep your head together leading final pitch, hat off to Nick for keeping it cool.

with Nick
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd dog
Adam Booth 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
gowla 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with adam booth
Dizz 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with David B
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Duncan Campbell 28/May/10 Lead β

Led p1, bubbles gave p2 a good go but couldn't do the move through the bulge, so I took over the lead, (with a few runners pre-placed) a hard move through the bulge leads onto a filthy slab, missed the thread so made my own directly beneath the roof. upper slab completely carpeted so abbed off thread. 5 star experience finding gear and holds under moss!

with Bubbles
cosmicray ??/2010 -
pascguil 26/May/08 Lead dog

A lot of vegetation througout. long climbing on mossy slabs and a few technical moves. Definetely doesn't deserve any star.

Hidden 26/May/08 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 12/May/08 Lead O/S

some good climbing, ripped a hold off seconding 3rd pitch and fell from the tree to the grassy slope.

andy gravestock 10/May/08 AltLd O/S

First multipitch, very dirty.

Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
ewen 11/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
John Kettle 11/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
jimdanson 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Martin Ibbotson
jim robertson ??/2006 -
French Erick 12/Jun/05 Lead
with matt
NickJH ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2000 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
pingora 02/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Steve Crowe 06/May/93 AltLd O/S


with KM
Mick King 22/Jul/92 AltLd

Lead P2 & 4

with Simon Walsh
biggianthead ?/Jul/92 -
with HT
Hammy 28/Jun/92 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 27/May/90 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??/1990 -
kalzum 21/May/89 Lead
with Ross
Hidden 06/Jul/86 AltLd
Rich Kirby ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Nick Clement
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1986 AltLd
with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson
Bruce Kerr 11/May/85 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
Neil R 22/Jul/84 2nd
with Richard Sanderson
Hidden 18/Jul/84 AltLd
redjerry ?/May/82 AltLd
with Duncan McCallum
andybirtwistle 20/Apr/82 2nd
with Ian Kyle
Dave Musgrove 28/Sep/80 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??/1979 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/78 AltLd
ian caton ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Pat Mcvay
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Phil Ingle, Hidden, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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