UKC

34m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exciting and slightly bold headwall is the main attraction. The top pitch can be gained easily by abseil if the tides are not favourable. Start on sea-level ledges below the main buttress.
1) 4c, 16m. Traverse left and climb a crack in a slab to a ledge and belay below the steep headwall.
2) 5c, 18m. Climb up the headwall to a horizontal break and move right. Boldly climb the wall above past a horizontal slot to better holds and protection in another break. Move left and finish up the wall on good holds.
Dawn Direct, E5 6a - Finish direct up the final wall using an undercut - hard and reachy. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Call of the wild

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Barras Gug)

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