An exciting and slightly bold headwall is the main attraction of this pitch. The top pitch can be gained easily by abseil if the tides are not favourable. Start on sea-level ledges below the main buttress.1) 4c, 16m. Traverse left and climb a crack in a slab to a ledge and belay below the steep headwall.2) 5c, 18m. Climb up the headwall to a horizontal break and move right. Boldly climb the wall above to better holds and protection before finishing up a short lichen-covered wall. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Ed Babs||31/Jul||Lead G/U||
Fell off the lichen covered top wall, pulled the ropes and finished on the right next time.
|pete johnson||21/Jul||2nd rpt||
Line in new Littlejohn select guide is Dawn Direct (E5).
Not particularly bold if you take offsets and lots of cams but the moves at the top are quite hard, getting to the undercuts in the last break and moving off them with a long move for the top took some thinking. No chalk so not entirely obvious exactly whic way to go, always better that way! Hard E3 - not bold or puppy enough for E4. Abbed into the ledge as the tide had come in.
Only did top half of route due to tides/swell, but didn't find a move harder than 4c. Looked like there was adequate gear, too.
Just made it!
|Ed Booth||16/May/13||Lead O/S||
PJ ( Belgium)
Bad gear, good climbing. Reminiscent of North Stack Wall
International Meet Guest
|Justin T||04/Jul/11||Lead O/S|
Lead Pitch 1
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||-|
|Steve Crowe||19/Jul/99||Lead O/S||
With Steve Bell