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Excellent Gabbro crags that should be easier to find with the new 2013 guidebook! Best on afternoons and summer evenings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a nest site at Mur Cenhinen. Please do not climb the following routes until 1st August; 'Sunset Rib' to 'Regan' inclusive. This is the extreme right hand side of the main cliff and the left side of the seaward cliff.
There is a Ravens' nests adjacent 'Binary Fission' (Craig Hebog), please avoid this route 1st March to 1st July and minimise disturbance in these areas.
30m.
The direct line through the left edge of Goneril's arc is steep, excellent, more consistent and a very full grade harder than that route. Start just left of Goneril and gain a triangle block at 6m. Trend boldly left to good holds then pull up to Goneril's traverse. Follow this left then right to the good block gear. Stretch steeply left to clip a bendy peg, switch on 'sports mode' and make a series of relentlessly powerful and blind moves past cams to gain good holds above the 2nd peg. Gain a niche above then step left to finish up cleaned rock.
FA. E.Jones, S.Quinton 01/Aug/1990.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ed morris | 16 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: First peg is rubbish but there is a bomber wire level with it. The second peg is nice to clip but not essential either. Still E4. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: First peg is rubbish but there is a bomber wire level with it. The second peg is nice to clip but not essential either. Still E4. |
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Guidebooks for St. David's Head West
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Route of Interest
Wrought Iron
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Iron Age Fort)