UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

This route starts in the same position as 'In her eyes direct', but does not work across to join 'In her eyes'. It follows a thin crack running parallel to the above, always approximately 1.5m to the right. The start appears to have no gear, bit there is a good spread of placements for small nuts and very small cams (00) all the way up. As you near the top the crack line disappears and you are faced with a small field of downward-facing shard-like flakes. It's a nice route when trying to avoid the busier area to the left and the abseil line.

I've looked about and can't find it listed as a route elsewhere, but I can't guarantee it's new. Apologies if not, but until otherwise I thought it worth listing.

Not in CC guide "Many variations have been claimed..."

Matt Jackson 23/Jul/2016.

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User Date Notes
MGrock 23 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Is this not Siren?
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βeta: Is this not Siren?

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 1
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
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Route of Interest
Lost Horizon

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Baggy Point)

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