UKC

6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent route that traces an amazing line up this impressive wall. The line visits places which appear much harder from below but holds appear at just the right moment. It is quite run out in places, but what gear there is tends to be good. Start as for Bridge's Route.
1) 4a, 23m. As for Bridge's Route.
2) 4b, 12m. As for Bridge's Route. Easy to combine these two.
2a) 5a, 32m. A good alternative direct version which is useful if Bridge's Route is busy. Move up right to gain a thin crack that leads to an easing. Step left and climb another thin crack to join pitch 3 midway.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb cracks above the belay to a spike. Follow a line of holds up rightwards across the blank wall to the far edge. Move back left, then up and right on flat holds to a pedestal on the arete and an awkward peg belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move carefully up the groove above to good gear at half height. Make steeper moves above to gain a sloping grassy ledge and belay.
5) 5b, 20m. Make an exposed traverse out right on a big foot-ledge to better hand-holds. Pull steeply up to a spike with a thread. Make a long pull up left, then run it out back up right on good holds with outrageous exposure to an easing. Move up right into a bay.
6) 4c, 10m. Finish up the undercut flake-crack on the right wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Quite bold and exposed. Concerns have been raised regarding a large loose block at the second belay.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Nuts of Legends , Hard Rock 2020 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Lakes , A Lakeland E2 Odyssey , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , UK Trad , Lakes Hard Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
xavsquires 8 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Did in 4 pitches. Pulled off some large blocks on the 5th pitch, some smaller blocks came off accidentally, and then I pulled out a much larger one. I think that was all of it but just beware as you come round the arĂȘte
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did in 4 pitches. Pulled off some large blocks on the 5th pitch, some smaller blocks came off accidentally, and then I pulled out a much larger one. I think that was all of it but just beware as you come round the arĂȘte
gmob 13 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The block belay at the base of the 4th pitch (the first 5b pitch) is detached and a little concerning considering the boldness of the pitch. Linking P3 & 4 may be a good idea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block belay at the base of the 4th pitch (the first 5b pitch) is detached and a little concerning considering the boldness of the pitch. Linking P3 & 4 may be a good idea.
Daniel Grout 18 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Did it in 3 pitches, 1, direct 2a, then 3-4-5 was totally fine, just as run out as it would be any way. Great weather great position, that spike block is going to come off at some point and things will get more interesting
Show beta
βeta: Did it in 3 pitches, 1, direct 2a, then 3-4-5 was totally fine, just as run out as it would be any way. Great weather great position, that spike block is going to come off at some point and things will get more interesting

Logged Ascents

436 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Esk Buttress (Dow Crag)

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 138 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 70
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Question

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Heron Crag (Borrowdale))

Loading Notifications...