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|Derbyshire > Chee Dale Upper >|
|The Super Indirect|| E1 5a|
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Coca Chalone >>
|105m, 5 pitches. A long combination of pitches which takes in the best bits of Aplomb and Sirplum after a poor start on the wall and grassy ledges left of the big bulging arete. A more sensible way of doing this route is to just start up the Stalk and finish up Aplomb/Sirplum combination which is actually just Aplomb with its variation finish.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the wall left of the arete to a ledge, then continue up the wall above trending right to a grassy ledge in a bay.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse the break rightwards around the corner into The Stalk and follow this to the top of the corner and belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Traverse right above the roof to belay in the corner. Aplomb pitch 2.
4) 5a, 30m. Step down and hand-traverse the break in a wild position to belay on a pedestal. Aplomb pitch 3.
5) 5a, 20m. Move left of great holds to a groove then climb to the top. Sirplum half of pitch 2.|
Ticklists: CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads.
Photo: Rick Graham crossing Aplomb on a rare ascent of The Plum Buttress Super Indirect © Neil Foster
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.
This climb is in 13 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd - 2008
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 29/May/03
marcoleptic - AltLd - 2000 with Ben
Hidden - 1990
Hidden - 1988
Stoney Boy - AltLd O/S - Apr/87 with Steve Wigmore
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/86
Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/84
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/84
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 30/Jun/84 with Paul Clark
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, jeffb, Ropeboy