UKC

Restricted Access

Conditions of Access for Climbing on Lee Cliff, Lee Abbey Estate:
1. The cliff forms part of an SSSI and no damage to its flora, fauna, or geology should be caused.
2. The cliff is a nesting-site for auks and birds of prey. Climbing must not take place between 1 April and 30 June.
3. Climbers must be in possession of valid civil liability insurance with cover up to £10 million. (This is included in membership of the BMC or Mountaineering Council of Scotland and can be obtained independantly.)
4. All climbers must, before climbing, report to Lee Abbey reception where they should sign the visitors’ book. If leaving a vehicle in Lee Abbey’s car park they must also supply their vehicle’s registration number.
5. Climbers must follow the way off from the cliff top described in detail below. This is the only permitted way off, which minimizes impact on the site including any disturbance to residents and visitors. On no account should anyone attempt to traverse from the way off eastwards towards the Valley of Rocks or climb over fences other than the single fence identified.
6. Climbers are welcome to park their cars at Lee Abbey car park when climbing on Lee Cliff, subject to spaces available. The approved way off the cliff-top takes you back to this car park.
7. Anyone climbing on Lee Abbey land does so entirely at their own risk, in line with the Participation Statement of the British Mountaineering Council.

70m, 4 pitches. P1 (5b) - As for The Chimney Sweep, start some way right of the diagonal fault in the shallow cave and gain a nose of rock at 6 metres from the right. Climb up to and through the bulging crack above to reach a ledge. Micro wires crucial on this pitch.

P2 (5c) - Climb into the corner above the stance and bridge up it on suspect rock, before shuffling right (feet across the break) to reach a crack in the right wall. Move up to a loose shale budge and pull carefully over it rightwards to a big ledge.

P3 (6a) - Climb the pink groove above (2 pegs, good as at 2016). Take the groove for 2 metres then swing right onto its right leaning wall (reasonable small gear available). Use a good but fragile flake to reach the crack before making crux moves up it to a small stance above.

P4 (5c) - Climb the corner for 3 metres. Finger traverse left onto the exposed face (peg and other gear) then make bold, technical moves slightly rightwards and then up the wall above to another peg. Surmount the small roof above to easier ground. Take cracks and flacks above until hauling out on brambles and other vegetation, to belay from a small tree.

MJ Crocker & I Parsons 18/Sep/2012.

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Route of Interest
Dark Angel

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Baggy Point)

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