|170m, 7 pitches. The plum pitches on this route are pitches 2, 3 and 4. Absorbing and exciting with plenty of exposure. The gear is sparse in places; take plenty of small wires (incl. micros) and a full set of cams from v. small to 3.0. There is much traversing and some downclimbing, so it suits a team where both are competent at the grade. |
April 2015 comments - A peg and (old) bolt lower-off at the end of pitch 4 now gives the option of just doing Ps 1 to 4, which makes an excellent 4 hrs. approx. outing at HVS/E1 5a/b (vote for what grade you think...). There is some suspect rock in places; this situation will resolve itself with only a small amount more traffic (ie. carefully remove any that you find). The presence or otherwise of pegs has changed a little since the 1995 guide, but the route currently goes ok at the grade with what is in place. Enjoy!
(Note: If contemplating the continuation pitches 5 to 7, see the descriptions for Grip Type Thynne, Jaywalk, The Odyssey and Ulysses P2 and make an early start!).
Pat Littlejohn, Peter Biven, Ed. Grindley 1969
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