UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The final moves are goey and spectacular. Start as for Butterfly.
1) 4a, 12m. Butterfly pitch 1.
2) 5b, 12m. From the top of the pillar make a move left and follow the rib in its entirety. The final section above the break is committing but over quickly. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4c,5b. Airy climbing up the prow with a crucial stretch to gain a great jug on the second pitch. Short lived but committing and fun.

Ticklists

Becky's ticklist , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 24 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent GaryGibson
Gary Gibson 26 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First ascent g
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First ascent g
BarwoodP 7 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First E2 and skipped E1 grade. Even E numbers now onto E4!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First E2 and skipped E1 grade. Even E numbers now onto E4!
BarwoodP 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: amazing climb 2 star for sure
Show beta
βeta: amazing climb 2 star for sure
NCrossingham 15 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely soft for E2 if you have a big span
Show beta
βeta: Definitely soft for E2 if you have a big span
Ed Thomsett 9 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Big TV sized block that you pull round off the ledge flexes a lot. Wouldn't put gear in it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big TV sized block that you pull round off the ledge flexes a lot. Wouldn't put gear in it.
Mattress 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good #1 wire, head-height on your right, once your hands are on the jug - makes the committing moves feel much more reasonable.
Show beta
βeta: Good #1 wire, head-height on your right, once your hands are on the jug - makes the committing moves feel much more reasonable.
ClimbingNut 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: When all seems lost nere the top... Gun for the big hold!
Show beta
βeta: When all seems lost nere the top... Gun for the big hold!

Logged Ascents

335 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 64
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Orange Goblin

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Ellwood)

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