240m, 7 pitches.
Beautiful sustained route taking the crack system up the middle of the east face.
Five pitches lead to a junction at the top of a short squeeze chimney, where the original line follows a diagonal fault left to join the top of the SE Pillar, and the direct finish continues via an offwidth. Various links of pitches 2-6 are possible.
2023 update: apart from the traverse pitch, which is protected by pitons, plus one piton on the second pitch and one bolt in the chimney, the route is now all trad protected, with bolted belays.
Five pitches lead to a junction at the top of a short squeeze chimney, where the original line follows a diagonal fault left to join the top of the SE Pillar, and the direct finish continues via an offwidth. Various links of pitches 2-6 are possible.
2023 update: apart from the traverse pitch, which is protected by pitons, plus one piton on the second pitch and one bolt in the chimney, the route is now all trad protected, with bolted belays.
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Route of Interest
Vento del Nord
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Gole di Gondo)