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Bird Ban April-July.
65m, 2 pitches.
E1 / MXS
A finely positioned esoteric trip through geological time. Taking the obvious line traversing through the bands immediately above the lip of the sea cave. Beyond a certain point retreat would involve down-climbing or a swim. Approach as for ‘Castle Wall’.
1. 40m. ~5a. Start up the slabby corner right of the sea-cave, where the rock bands become much thinner. From this, traverse hard left across a smooth slab to awkwardly gain a big guano covered ledge. Continue left, following the easiest line around the projecting rib and across the lip of the sea cave to a short overhanging corner. Pull over this and continue up left on more reliable rock to good belays near the arête.
2. 25m. 4b. As for ‘Gannet Groove’. Step left ‘round the arête into a small corner and take the exposed ~1m wide rightwards rising ramp/gangway back above the cave. From the top of this move slightly right and up to gain the top.
A finely positioned esoteric trip through geological time. Taking the obvious line traversing through the bands immediately above the lip of the sea cave. Beyond a certain point retreat would involve down-climbing or a swim. Approach as for ‘Castle Wall’.
1. 40m. ~5a. Start up the slabby corner right of the sea-cave, where the rock bands become much thinner. From this, traverse hard left across a smooth slab to awkwardly gain a big guano covered ledge. Continue left, following the easiest line around the projecting rib and across the lip of the sea cave to a short overhanging corner. Pull over this and continue up left on more reliable rock to good belays near the arête.
2. 25m. 4b. As for ‘Gannet Groove’. Step left ‘round the arête into a small corner and take the exposed ~1m wide rightwards rising ramp/gangway back above the cave. From the top of this move slightly right and up to gain the top.
Adam Russell, Lia Guest (Onsight, Ground-up) 06/Aug/2016.
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Route of Interest
Plain Sailing
Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Souter (Fastcastle))