UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
200m.

Rockfax Description
S0. Descend steps leftwards from the neck of land between Durdle Door and St. Oswald's Bay, and traverse from the right end of the beach and round the point onto the seaward face. Continue easily westwards tackling a short but wild overhanging hand traverse to exit in a little baylet (over good deep water). Keep going, choosing harder or easier options to suit. Exit through Durdle Door, where a tricky wall that leads to ledges and the beach. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
S0. Descend left down the steps from the neck of land between Durdle Door and St. Oswald's bay, and traverse from the right end of the beach and round the point onto the seaward face. Continue easily westwards tackling a short but wild overhanging hand traverse to exit in a little baylet (over good deep water). Keep going, choosing harder or easier options to suit, exit through Durdle Door with a tricky wall that leads to ledges and the beach.

FA. Ivan Bicknell 11/Aug/2016.

Ticklists

South West Coast Traversing ticklist

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

5 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 10 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

Loading Notifications...