Citadel*** E5 6b
2 pitches. Magnificent with a hard crux.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Main Cliff Big E5s, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Fell off seconding on the crux of pitch 1 but leading pitch 2 was amazing which kind of made up for it.
Rachel Slater - AltLd - 01/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

Quite greasy on the first pitch so I found it hard to just get to the niche before the crux and then I almost greased off the huge jug side-pull at the start of the crux sequence one go as I was about to commit. The crux is safe, but since the demise of the peg you'd now fall a few metres. Only just made it through the crux, found it desperate. The second pitch looks quite steady from below, but is actually awkward and sustained and after three pumpy days climbing I had a moment when I thought I was going to blow it on second. Overall I found it quite a bit harder than positron.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/14 with rachel slater

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Tom Livingstone

Led P1 and P3.
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/14 with Dan Gibson

We did Hunger into Citadel - apparently one of the best combos around, and I'd now agree! Seconded P2, led P3.
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Gwen Lancashire

mike mo - 2014

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with will sim

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/13

tried to sneak it in after the needle. ran out of light so bailed off the first pitch after stripping gear from traverse. nearly got cut off by the tide too, well fun.
JRae - AltLd dnf - 13/Oct/12 with M Watson

had to back off, light, tide etc.
mwatson - AltLd dnf - Sep/12

Lead pitches 1 and 3, man I find Main Cliff scary! I was shaking for most of the first pitch. Good effort to Luke on P2!
jacobjacob - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/12

One fall, literally from the finishing jugs - greased off!
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2012 with Alex Haslehurst

Led P1 (Belayed above extinction/hunger which was a good place to belay from). Both pitches felt E4. First is E3 until the safe 6b crux. Second pitch is a real pumper.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with George Ullrich

Steady for the grade, E3-4 except for one move
Adam Long - AltLd - 23/Jul/11 with Ben Bransby

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

Excellent route
Russell Birkett - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with Murdoch J

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 30/May/10 with Mick Lovatt

edinbed - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Andy Reeve

Pete Graham - AltLd - 02/May/09 with Malcolm Scott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

Led 2nd pitch. Flashed 1st.
Rich Kirby - AltLd - 13/Jul/08 with Nige

nige - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/08 with richard kirby

Al Evans - 2008

tuftynick - AltLd - 2008 with Kenton Cool

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1999

andyblain - 2nd O/S - Jun/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/96

sadams - AltLd rpt - 16/Jun/96 with John Boyle

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

1 pt of aid
michael burrows - 2nd - 07/Aug/94 with andy boorman

Led pitch 1
jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/94 with Nick Wharton

Hidden - AltLd - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/92

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1990

shark - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/89 with Seb Grieve

Dave Douglas - Lead β - 27/Jun/89 with Neil Brodie

Great climb. Pretty hard too.
Steve Walker - Lead - 1989 with paul entwistle

Very, very hot day - got arses' well and truly kicked had to aid up top cracks. Got off after six hours tails between our legs and very sun burnt.
sadams - AltLd dog - 13/Jun/88 with Andy Mitchell

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1988 with Len Cray

keefe - 04/May/86

Mike Owen - 30/May/83 with Al Simpson

Hidden - Lead dog - Apr/81

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Andrew Wilson, rustaldo, feilx, stevebarratt, barni, centurion05, marky

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard E60 of 13
E60 of 13
easy E60 of 13
hard E50 of 13
E511 of 13
easy E52 of 13
hard E40 of 13
E40 of 13
easy E40 of 13
hard 6c0 of 13
6c0 of 13
easy 6c0 of 13
hard 6b1 of 13
6b11 of 13
easy 6b1 of 13
hard 6a0 of 13
6a0 of 13
easy 6a0 of 13
3 Stars12 of 13
2 Stars1 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf