55m, 2 pitches. The inaugural route provides a superb sustained outing more or less directly up the centre of the cliff. Take lots of micro wires and micro cams, but still expect to be running it out high up. Start at the col below the lower buttress.
1. 25m 5c Climb up for a few metres until an obvious line of big footholds leading out left can be gained. Follow these hard left to gain the left-slanting crack on the left edge of the cliff and follow this with interest over a bulge until a tricky move gains a good ledge (beware loose block). Turn the nose on the right directly and on up to a commodious block belay.
2. 35m 6b Move directly up to the base of the headwall, then left to stand on a large protruding hold. Climb directly for a couple of metres then step right onto the black wall and climb straight up again (bold) to gain the first break. Follow this right to a thin crack, not far left of the obvious groove of Primal Dream. Climb the crack up to where a perplexing move left gains better holds and a good flake which leads up to the next break. Climb the dwindling crack with increasing difficulty to a good flat hold from where a long stretch up right leads to improving holds and the final break. Take a deep breath, then forge directly up the thin white flake feature above to a final hard move rightwards just below the top.

Robertson and Currie Jul/2015.

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